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9:27 PM, Thursday September 24th 2020

These are honestly really quite well done, and you show a good deal of progress over the full set. You've done far more than I asked for - which would have been a problem if you didn't actually demonstrate that you took your time with each (since quantity doesn't trump quality in this situation) - but it looks like you definitely pushed your understanding of the material quite a bit.

I was especially fond of your doberman, and the way you handled the additional masses along its shoulder/back area. These wrap very nicely around the underlying structure, which is something you struggled with in some of the earlier drawings. For example, with the bull on the bottom right of this page, as well as the elephant above it, you tended to just kind of plop those forms on top, rather than properly integrating and wrapping them around the underlying structure. This is one of the more notable areas in which you improved.

I did notice though that the doberman's ribcage seemed to be a bit small - something that you actually did pretty often. Note that the ribcage is 1/2 the torso length, and definitely not the same size as the pelvis.

On the bottom right of this page it stood out quite a bit more strongly that you tend to draw construction with a fainter mark, and then you go back over things, "tracing" them with a final pass. When working on Drawabox, don't do this - I don't want you replacing or redrawing marks that already exist as part of your construction. All the lines of your construction should be drawn confidently, not trying to make them faint or hidden, and they should be part of the final drawing, not something to be ignored. Remember that we're not just creating a pretty drawing and focusing on reproducing the reference image - we're building something up, working on a three dimensional puzzle, using simple forms. At no point in the process are you to say "okay I've finished the puzzle, now to actually make it look like the animal" and start treating it like a 2D drawing again. It is always a 3D structure.

One other minor point - you've got a few drawings where you filled areas in with solid black. In general, when working through this course, only reserve those filled black shapes for cast shadows and nothing else. Not for filling in a black nose (local colour should be ignored), not for filling in the far legs, etc.

So! I'll go ahead and mark this lesson as complete. Keep up the good work.

Next Steps:

Feel free to move onto the 250 cylinder challenge, which is a prerequisite for lesson 6.

This critique marks this lesson as complete.
9:32 PM, Thursday September 24th 2020

thank you very much for the critique boss!

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Faber Castell PITT Artist Pens

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Like the Staedtlers, these also come in a set of multiple weights - the ones we use are F. One useful thing in these sets however (if you can't find the pens individually) is that some of the sets come with a brush pen (the B size). These can be helpful in filling out big black areas.

Still, I'd recommend buying these in person if you can, at a proper art supply store. They'll generally let you buy them individually, and also test them out beforehand to weed out any duds.

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