View Full Submission View Parent Comment
8:09 PM, Monday March 23rd 2020

To start, your organic intersections are looking great. You're doing an excellent job of capturing how the forms wrap around one another in a believable fashion. You convey a strong respect for how each individual one is a solid, three dimensional form, with their own volume and thickness, rather than treating them as though they're flat shapes being integrated into a two dimensional drawing.

This is still something you're struggling with in your animal constructions. As your fox was actually largely a successful drawing, I decided to write notes on top of it specifically.

The main issue is that the masses you've added along its back are first drawn as flat shapes, then made somewhat 3D by adding contour lines. The thing is, contour lines that run along the surface of a single form, unlike those we use to define the joints between sausage forms, don't tell us anything about the relationship of this form with the forms around it. This, when adding additional masses, can only be achieved by considering it while we draw its silhouette/initial shape. So if you look at my own, you'll see that I haven't used a single contour line - and yet the way the silhouette wraps around the underlying structure still makes the form feel three dimensional.

You also need to consider the fact that these forms come with their own volume and thickness. As you can see in these notes for another student, this means that they create a lot of these "pinches", rather than smoothly integrating with the silhouette of the underlying structure.

A couple more things to keep in mind:

  • Don't cut back into the 2D silhouettes of your shapes. I discussed this in my last critique when explaining additive and subtractive construction. In this case, I'd work additively, as I did in the demonstration I drew above your fox.

  • The head of your fox was largely done quite well with an overall strong grasp of form and construction, but make sure that you're drawing your eyesocket/eyeball larger. All of these components - the eyesocket, muzzle, brow ridge, etc. in the head and the other additional masses throughout the body - should fit together like pieces of a 3D puzzle, not float independently of one another.

  • Keep working on your use of the sausage method. You improve as you go through the set but it's important to be mindful of hitting all the major points of the technique, lest you slip back into old habits.

Lastly, I am noticing a tendency to draw in your initial masses more lightly, then go back over them later with visibly darker lines. Don't do this. We are not treating the earlier steps of construction as though they are somehow an underdrawing that is meant to be discarded afterwards. Each step is a part of the final drawing, and if there are elements that are captured at those earliest stages, then there is no need to replace its lines with something darker. It should have been drawn with the same confidence from the beginning. You'll notice that in my construction, there's no such underdrawing visible.

Next Steps:

I'd like to see 3 more animal drawings, applying what I've demonstrated here. You're very close, but I need to make sure you understand how to use these additional masses.

When finished, reply to this critique with your revisions.
8:59 PM, Monday March 23rd 2020

Thanks for the feedback! Am I clear for Lesson 6, or something else? Thanks again.

9:26 PM, Monday March 23rd 2020

Under the critique, you'll see a section labeled "next steps" where I said the following:

I'd like to see 3 more animal drawings, applying what I've demonstrated here. You're very close, but I need to make sure you understand how to use these additional masses.

5:59 AM, Thursday April 2nd 2020
10:08 PM, Thursday April 2nd 2020

This is looking much better! You're definitely demonstrating a much stronger grasp of how the additional masses work, and how your forms relate to one another in general. Congrats!

I'll go ahead and mark this lesson as complete.

Next Steps:

Go ahead and move onto the 250 cylinder challenge, which is a prerequisite for lesson 7.

This critique marks this lesson as complete.
The recommendation below is an advertisement. Most of the links here are part of Amazon's affiliate program (unless otherwise stated), which helps support this website. It's also more than that - it's a hand-picked recommendation of something I've used myself. If you're interested, here is a full list.
Sakura Pigma Microns

Sakura Pigma Microns

A lot of my students use these. The last time I used them was when I was in high school, and at the time I felt that they dried out pretty quickly, though I may have simply been mishandling them. As with all pens, make sure you're capping them when they're not in use, and try not to apply too much pressure. You really only need to be touching the page, not mashing your pen into it.

In terms of line weight, the sizes are pretty weird. 08 corresponds to 0.5mm, which is what I recommend for the drawabox lessons, whereas 05 corresponds to 0.45mm, which is pretty close and can also be used.

This website uses cookies. You can read more about what we do with them, read our privacy policy.