Starting with your arrows, you've drawn these with a great deal of confidence and fluidity - though it's worth noting that when you add line weight, you do so with a little more hesitation, which in turn makes those confident lines appear a little more stiff. Remember that even when adding line weight, we want to use the ghosting method so as to execute the marks as confidently as can, so try and avoid hesitating even if it results in more mistakes.
The confidence of your execution carries over fairly well into your leaves, though I am definitely seeing a tendency, when adding more complex edge detail, to zigzag back and forth across the earlier phase of construction's lines. As explained here in the lesson, it's important that you maintain a tighter relationship with the previous phase of construction, ensuring that every "bump" is defined separately, coming off and returning to the edge defined previously. I can see you doing this a little more correctly in some of these, though not all. I also noticed that when drawing the subsequent phase of construction, you tend to draw with a heavier stroke, likely applying more pressure. There is no need to draw these marks any darker than the original ones.
Moving onto the branches, it appears that you are not extending your segments fully halfway to the next ellipse as mentioned in the instructions. This is particularly important because doing so provides a healthy overlap between those two segments, allowing them to transition from one to the next more smoothly and more seamlessly. Since you're not doing that, the transition is a bit more jerky. Aside from that, your work on this exercise is coming along well, as you're maintaining fairly even width throughout the length of the branches, making them feel solid.
Continuing onto the plant constructions, asidew from the issues I've already called out, your work here is largely coming along well. You're building up your constructions step by step, focusing on working from simple to complex, and are avoiding any unnecessary oversimplification. There are a couple minor issues I want to draw your attention to, however:
This is a crop from your tulip drawing - it appears that for some reason you filled in the negative space outside of the leaf with solid black. In the future, definitely avoid doing this. Filled, solid black should be reserved only for cast shadow shapes.
Looking at this page in full, I also noticed that you're not maintaining a consistent direction in which the cast shadows ought to be falling - you've got them falling both to the left and the right of your forms, creating the impression of an inconsistent light source. Always try and keep in mind where you want your light source to be, and only cast shadows on the side that makes sense.
For drawings like the left side of this page, you've drawn the texture of the petals, those "ridges" with a lot of separate lines. Remember that all your textural marks should be drawn as shadow shapes, not lines. You can do so using this two-step process to force yourself to work exclusively in shadow shapes. As shown here, it'll yield a more dynamic result.
Aside from those points I've raised, your work is largely coming along fairly well. I'll go ahead and mark this lesson as complete.
Next Steps:
Move onto lesson 4.
A lot of my students use these. The last time I used them was when I was in high school, and at the time I felt that they dried out pretty quickly, though I may have simply been mishandling them. As with all pens, make sure you're capping them when they're not in use, and try not to apply too much pressure. You really only need to be touching the page, not mashing your pen into it.
In terms of line weight, the sizes are pretty weird. 08 corresponds to 0.5mm, which is what I recommend for the drawabox lessons, whereas 05 corresponds to 0.45mm, which is pretty close and can also be used.
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