Hi Rivgar!
Thank you for your time and critique.
I do tend to draw small, partly because i wasn't sure of how many plants i should be drawing, partly because i tend to draw as big as the reference is, i should definitely start zooming in.
Sorry about the delay, i've been kinda busy these days, but here it is the additional plant drawing required.
It is by far looking way better, you applied the lineweight correctly, as it isn't wobbly. You didn't skip leaf construction so good job addressing those mistakes. I still do think that you should build your smaller leaf in bounds of the 1st big leaf shape, but you follow the form of it so it doesn't make that much of a difference.
Many students use lineweight as their 2nd pass, 1st being construction. Remember that line weight doesn't involve going back over whole lines and shapes, we want to add it only on top of our important overlaps of lines.
Also when you take a photo of your drawing, remember to include the corners of the paper, as it is one reliable way to judge how big your drawing is.
I will mark this lesson as complete then.
Have fun on your journey,
Next Steps:
Continue to lesson 4
This recommendation is really just for those of you who've reached lesson 6 and onwards.
I haven't found the actual brand you buy to matter much, so you may want to shop around. This one is a "master" template, which will give you a broad range of ellipse degrees and sizes (this one ranges between 0.25 inches and 1.5 inches), and is a good place to start. You may end up finding that this range limits the kinds of ellipses you draw, forcing you to work within those bounds, but it may still be worth it as full sets of ellipse guides can run you quite a bit more, simply due to the sizes and degrees that need to be covered.
No matter which brand of ellipse guide you decide to pick up, make sure they have little markings for the minor axes.
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