250 Box Challenge

7:27 PM, Monday February 15th 2021

DrawABox_250Boxes - Google Drive

DrawABox_250Boxes - Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1y2ycF8-aAqDaDR77V_Z1RdCwiWD6o0EC?usp=sharing

I know some of them are pretty bad... I actually did not realize I was supposed to submit this for feedback when I was doing it... So when I realized that I was supposed to, I decided to submit as is and look for suggestions on what to do next... to redo the whole thing, some parts of it or move forward to lesson 2?

Thank you for your time reviewing this!

Anna.

1 users agree
2:06 AM, Wednesday February 17th 2021
edited at 7:47 PM, Feb 18th 2021

Congratulations for completing the 250 Box Challenge!

You did a good job on the challenge overall.

I can see you made some good improvement with the quality of your mark making. Your lines steadily become straighter and more confident looking as you progressed through the challenge. You have also made good progress with adding extra line weight to your boxes, I can see that your extra line weight is doing a better job of blending more seamlessly with your original marks as you progress!

While your mark making has improved, I do see that you still hesitate in some areas. This is likely due to prioritizing your accuracy over creating a smooth, confident looking line.

Just remember that the confidence of the stroke is far and away your top priority. Once your pen touches the page, any opportunity to avoid mistakes has passed, so all you can really do is push through. Hesitation serves no purpose. Mistakes happen, but a smooth, confident mark is still useful even if it's a little off. If the line is wrong, we leave it and move onto the next step. Accuracy is something that you will improve on as you continue working through Drawabox and practice ghosting.

Now, while it is important that you use the ghosting method of each mark you make while doing Drawabox one thing you can try to help with ending your marks closer to where you want them is lifting the pen off of the page rather than stopping the motion of your arm. You can do this with extra line weight as well. I would also recommend that you read this comment by Uncomfortable, where he talks more about hesitation.

You appear to have crossed out a few boxes you made and replaced them. For future reference, while working through Drawabox we do not cross out or attempt to cover up our mistakes. Mistakes happen. It is important to recognize when a mistake is made and why. Then, we move onto the next step. You should not start over or redo work unless a TA or Uncomfortable has told you to in an official critique.

I noticed that you still struggle a bit with applying your extra line weight. When you go to add weight to a line it is important that you treat the added weight the same way you would a brand new line. That means taking your time to plan and ghost through your mark so that when you go to execute your extra line weight, it is done confidently and so that it blends seamlessly with your original mark. This will allow you to create more subtle and clean looking weight to your lines that reinforces the illusion of solidity in your boxes/forms. Extra line weight should be applied to the silhouette of your boxes. I recommend that you try adding your extra line weight in no more than 1-2 pases. This diagram should help you better understand how to properly apply your extra line weight.

Extra line weight should never be used to correct or hide mistakes. Something to keep in mind as well, when you are working through Drawabox you should be employing the ghosting method for every mark you make. This includes the hatching that we sometimes use for our boxes.

Some of your boxes were drawn a bit small. Part of the reason for the 5-6 boxes per page rule is so that students have enough room to draw their boxes larger while having room to check their convergences. By drawing your boxes very small you limit your own ability to execute your lines from the shoulder confidently, which affects the quality of your mark making. Drawing bigger also helps engage your brain's spatial reasoning skills, whereas drawing smaller impedes them. It isn't a problem if your line extensions end up touching other boxes on the page so long as the boxes themselves do not touch or overlap. This should give you enough room to draw your boxes at a larger, more useful size.This, along with varying your foreshortening and orientations of your boxes, will help you get the most out of the exercise.

I did see that you were checking some of your convergences incorrectly.

Checking your convergences is an important step so you should always take your time and make sure you are extending your sets of lines correctly. Noticing and identifying mistakes is a major part of the learning process. Checking your boxes for mistakes is how you know what areas you need to address so that you get the most out of each exercise.

Your line extensions should extend away from the viewer and towards their implied vanishing point. You should do this for all three sets of lines that make up your box. They should never be coming off of the center of the original Y that you use at the beginning of your construction. Be sure to visit the link for more information and for examples that you can use as reference. You can refer to the diagrams in this link if you are ever confused or uncertain.

For some of your boxes, you appear to have purposely tried to keep your sets of lines parallel on the 2D page, drawing them all to an "infinite" vanishing point. As explained in this section, because these boxes are oriented with us looking at the corner of the box, you should be drawing your boxes in 3 point perspective - meaning with 3 concrete vanishing points, each set of lines converging towards a real point in space, even if that point is far off and the convergence is gradual. At no point in the instructions does it state that you should draw your boxes without any foreshortening. All of the boxes you draw will have some foreshortening even if the convergence is very gradual. The circumstances in which vanishing points go to “infinite” as discussed in lesson 1 are only in specific orientations that run parallel to the viewer. In this exercise we are working with completely random rotations and so those cases are exceedingly rare. You can also watch this video I made where I demonstrate how I approach drawing boxes.

To clarify, when I say "sets of parallel lines" or refer to your sets of lines as parallel, I am referring to lines that are parallel in 3d space not parallel on the page. If you remember from lesson one, the core principle of perspective is that when we draw a 3d form on a flat surface those lines that are parallel in 3d will now converge towards a shared vanishing point on the page.

Which means your sets of lines will not appear perfectly parallel on the page. Think about how those lines converge, do not purposely try to keep them parallel on the page.

I think this diagram will help you as well. When you are looking at your sets of lines you want to be focusing only on the lines that share a vanishing point. This does not include lines that share a corner or a plane, only lines that converge towards the same vanishing point. Now when you think of those lines, including those that have not been drawn, you can think about the angles from which they leave the vanishing point. Usually the middle lines have a small angle between them, and this angle will become negligible by the time they reach the box. This can serve as a useful hint.

Before moving onto lesson 2, I am going to have you draw 30 additional boxes.

For these boxes you will do the following:

  • Use the ghosting method for every mark you make, including hatching and extra line weight

  • Apply extra line weight in a single pass along the entire silhouette of your boxes

  • Draw all of your boxes in 3pt Perspective

  • 5 boxes per page maximum

  • Check all of your convergences as per the instructions

I will mainly be looking at the quality of your mark making to see if you are employing the ghosting method correctly for all of your mark making, including extra line weight and hatching. I will also be looking at your boxes to make sure your sets of lines are not being kept purposefully parallel.

Make sure you visit every link I have left for you and reread the challenge instructions in their entirety before beginning your revisions.

Next Steps:

30 additional boxes as described in the critique.

When finished, reply to this critique with your revisions.
edited at 7:47 PM, Feb 18th 2021
3:13 PM, Sunday February 21st 2021

Hi!

Thank you so much for your feedback! I truly appreciate it.

Here is the link to additional 30 boxes as noted in the critique: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Y04fp6_UVKp_DnwVZIfvxBe7MpA6dTKE?usp=sharing

I realize these are not perfect - I made mistakes here too, but decided to submit these anyway and see what you say.

Thank you,

Anna.

6:10 PM, Sunday February 21st 2021

This is a very good improvement! From what I can see you have checked your convergences correctly and the quality of your mark making is steadily improving.

I did see that you were adding extra line weight to some of the inner corners of your boxes. When working through the 250 Box Challenge, you should only apply extra line weight to the silhouette of your box and not the inner corners. Also keep in mind that extra line weight is not meant to hide or correct our mistakes. In DaB we do not ever hide or correct mistakes. If the line is wrong we leave it and move onto the next, following the ghosting method at every step of our construction.

While most of your boxes were drawn correctly, I do see a few where you appear to have still tried to keep your sets of lines parallel on the page. (8, 10, 11, 12, 15 are good examples of this)

If you refer to this image from the box challenge you can see an example of shallow and dramatic foreshortening. You can see that while the box with shallow foreshortening might appear to have perfectly parallel sets of lines, when you look closer you will see that those sets of lines are actually converging towards their shared vanishing point very subtly. They are not actually parallel on the page itself.

Let's draw five more boxes.

You will follow all the same steps as before. I will be looking at your sets of lines to make sure they are converging towards their shared vanishing points.

Remember:

  • Use the ghosting method for every mark you make, including hatching and extra line weight

  • Apply extra line weight in a single pass along the entire silhouette of your boxes

  • Draw all of your boxes in 3pt Perspective

  • Check all of your convergences as per the instructions

Next Steps:

Five additonal boxes

When finished, reply to this critique with your revisions.
2:57 AM, Monday February 22nd 2021

thank you so much for tour patience with me! you are right, i am really struggling with this parallel lines... i noticed that when i consciously try NOT to make them parallel, it comes out really off like box #1. i added the page with additional 5 boxes, to the same folder for you to review https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Y04fp6_UVKp_DnwVZIfvxBe7MpA6dTKE

this was not the only attempt :(, I picked the best obe out of 3....

View more comments in this thread
The recommendation below is an advertisement. Most of the links here are part of Amazon's affiliate program (unless otherwise stated), which helps support this website. It's also more than that - it's a hand-picked recommendation of something I've used myself. If you're interested, here is a full list.
Ellipse Master Template

Ellipse Master Template

This recommendation is really just for those of you who've reached lesson 6 and onwards.

I haven't found the actual brand you buy to matter much, so you may want to shop around. This one is a "master" template, which will give you a broad range of ellipse degrees and sizes (this one ranges between 0.25 inches and 1.5 inches), and is a good place to start. You may end up finding that this range limits the kinds of ellipses you draw, forcing you to work within those bounds, but it may still be worth it as full sets of ellipse guides can run you quite a bit more, simply due to the sizes and degrees that need to be covered.

No matter which brand of ellipse guide you decide to pick up, make sure they have little markings for the minor axes.

This website uses cookies. You can read more about what we do with them, read our privacy policy.