Lesson 2: Contour Lines, Texture and Construction
1:37 AM, Friday March 11th 2022
Bit of a time gap in there in between starting and finishing this lesson. Thanks for taking a look.
Hello I’ll be handling the critique for your lesson 2 homework.
Arrows
-Starting with the organic arrows, these are drawn with a good deal of confidence which really helps you to capture the fluidity with which they move through space, but I want to call out a few things.
My major concern is lineweight, you tend to make them too thick and you apply it very hesitantly, this really undermines the confidence with which you drew your initial marks. Keep in mind that you should apply it with the same confidence you drew the initial lines for your ribbon. Take a look at this diagram which shows how to apply it correctly, another thing that can help you is to use lineweight only on the very specific parts where overlap occurs, avoid applying line weight to marks that are especially long - instead, it's more effective when we minimize its use, concentrating it instead on doing a specific task. You can see it in action on this image
I can see that you are aware of the perspective and foreshortening of the ribbon but you still need to keep working on it, some of your arrows bulge throughout their length. Remember that the negative space between the zigzagging sections of the ribbon should decrease as it moves further away from the viewer, as shown here, .
Organic Forms
-You are sticking to the characteristics of simple sausages, and you are keeping them simple and easy to work with, only a few of them have some swelling so keep an eye out for that.
Texture
-On the texture analysis you are doing a pretty good job focusing on the cast shadows rather than the outlines of the forms projecting them, and you are achieving a seamless transition from dense to sparse.
-On the dissection you have mixed a little of outlines and you are focusing on the negative space, a good example of this is the cracked dirt texture, remember that cast shadows are projected from one surface to another, even if it is farther away, so you should always try identify the form casting the shadow and the surface that receives it. I'd also like to quickly direct you to this image which shows that when we're working with thin line-like textures if we outline and fill the shadow we will create a much more dynamic texture than simply drawing lines.
Form Intersections
-You are doing a good job with these intersections and I can see that you are thinking about how these form relate to one another in 3D space, the only thing I want to suggest is that you should draw each form with roughly the same dimensions, avoid having small and big forms clumped together as it undermines the solidity of the whole set. Don’t worry if you feel like you don’t fully grasp this exercise as we will be revisiting it in future lessons.
Organic Intersections
Finishing with the organic intersections, I can see that your spatial reasoning is developing, as your forms begin to wrap around each other believably. Just try to keep them simple, do not let them wiggle and just like in the organic forms try to have them equally sized without any pinching or swelling throughout their length. In the future I want you to draw through your forms, and don’t let the sausages cut off each other. Lastly, you are not pushing the shadows far enough and they seem to be hugging the form which they are falling on, try to push them further as shown here
Okay, you have some things to keep working on, but you can work on them as you move on to the next lesson. I’ll go ahead and mark this as complete.
Next Steps:
Lesson 3
Thanks very much for the in-depth feedback. Especially all the linked diagrams, super helpful. As suggested I'll work on those items as I move forwards.
These are what I use when doing these exercises. They usually run somewhere in the middle of the price/quality range, and are often sold in sets of different line weights - remember that for the Drawabox lessons, we only really use the 0.5s, so try and find sets that sell only one size.
Alternatively, if at all possible, going to an art supply store and buying the pens in person is often better because they'll generally sell them individually and allow you to test them out before you buy (to weed out any duds).
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