250 Box Challenge
10:08 PM, Friday June 5th 2020
So, 250 boxes, done.
Besides some wobbly lines and small mistakes that ended distorting the box a lot, it is good i guess.
Thanks for the feedback.
Hello ElGirard!
I’d like to congratulate you on finishing the 250 box challenge; it’s certainly no easy feat!
Let’s first talk about the lines.
Line quality is a bit of a mix, especially in the beginning where there are some really nice, confident strokes, and others more hesitant and wobbly. Although they tend to improve over the challenge, I am frequently seeing corrected lines. No matter how tempting it is to correct a line, don’t do it. Yes, it can be frustrating, but in the end, a smooth, confident line that is slightly inaccurate is much better than that of a line that is accurate but wobbly. So remember to keep using those dots to plan; ghost with your shoulder; and execute the line confidently.
This holds true to any line you draw, including line weight and hatching lines. There were times where I wasn’t quite sure if you were applying line weight or if you were correcting the lines. However, the extra marks in both external and internal lines led me to believe the lines were corrected. If there were some attempt to apply line weight, they should be:
applied around the silhouette (outer edges) of the box, and
subtle. This can be accomplished by superimposing the line (like in lesson 1) confidently and just once.
When adding hatching lines, treat them with care and execute them as with any other lines you draw. Hatching lines should be tight, consistent, and parallel to each other. Moreover, they should have a solid start and ending point, from edge to edge on one of the box’s face. The hatching lines in your boxes admittedly start off a little rough, but improve over time. However, some still start and end past the edges of the box, in turn slightly undoing the hard work you’ve done to maintain a solid 3D box.
Now, onto your boxes!
You have a pretty good mixture of shallow and dramatic foreshortening. You’re also experimenting with various orientations, so that’s great. Don’t be afraid to draw a little bigger, about 5-6 boxes per page as you’ve done with your last 2 pages.
You start off with the usual issues of diverging lines. I also see some moments where you ran into confusion on which direction to extend your error check lines, but you managed to fix it and get a hang of it pretty early on. Still, be careful to extend the error check lines from the starting point of the original line (tracing over it) and extending out (versus starting the error check line at the end of the original line and extending out).
Also, be careful of boxes that become distorted (example boxes: LIV, CXCVI, CCVIII).
As you approach the final boxes, there are still a couple of issues particularly with the inner corner of the box. Continue to think about the relationship between the overall sets of lines rather than just the pairs of lines. Here is a diagram by Uncomfortable that helps explain the relationship of the lines. Taking this into account, you can also try to modify the order in which you draw the box, as briefly mentioned here by community member Elodin.
All in all, there is considerable improvement from your first boxes to your last boxes, and the boxes are pretty solid.
So with that, congratulations on completing this challenge, and feel free to move on to Lesson 2!
Next Steps:
Continue to draw boxes and/or other lesson 1 exercises (pick two or three) as part of your warm ups (about 10-15 minutes)
Feel free to move onto Lesson 2
Don’t forget to take breaks and draw for fun!
Also, now that you’ve completed the box challenge, I encourage you to critique some Lesson 1 and 250 box challenge community submissions. Not only will this help the community, but it will also solidify and reinforce your understanding of the material. Of course, this is optional (but we’d be grateful!). If you’d like to give it a shot, see the guides below that was created by one of our community members on how to go about critiquing:
Where the rest of my recommendations tend to be for specific products, this one is a little more general. It's about printer paper.
As discussed in Lesson 0, printer paper (A4 or 8.5"x11") is what we recommend. It's well suited to the kind of tools we're using, and the nature of the work we're doing (in terms of size). But a lot of students still feel driven to sketchbooks, either by a desire to feel more like an artist, or to be able to compile their work as they go through the course.
Neither is a good enough reason to use something that is going to more expensive, more complex in terms of finding the right kind for the tools we're using, more stress-inducing (in terms of not wanting to "ruin" a sketchbook - we make a lot of mistakes throughout the work in this course), and more likely to keep you from developing the habits we try to instill in our students (like rotating the page to find a comfortable angle of approach).
Whether you grab the ream of printer paper linked here, a different brand, or pick one up from a store near you - do yourself a favour and don't make things even more difficult for you. And if you want to compile your work, you can always keep it in a folder, and even have it bound into a book when you're done.
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