Lesson 3: Applying Construction to Plants

11:07 AM, Sunday May 3rd 2020

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I took an unplanned break between starting and finishing this lesson (after the leafs exercise) so I probably forgot some things, in hindsight I should have read the lesson again (and I will do just that soon) That all said, please point out all mistakes I've made! And thank you for your time!

2 users agree
9:20 PM, Wednesday May 27th 2020
edited at 9:20 PM, May 27th 2020


Pretty good in general! Only thing I noticed is that your lineweight feels a bit stiff, remember that when adding lineweight you should still do it with a drawn with the shoulder ghosted stroke too, always prioritizing confidence over accuracy.


Branches are pretty solid and confident overall, only issue I noticed is that you have some places where you got some lines that aren't connected. When starting the next stroke on each branch, a good idea is to overlap your stroke with the previous line, as if you were doing a superimposed line, like I show here.


Pretty good overall too, there's a leaf where you might be cutting into the forms when you modify the contour, might or not be the case, but if it is, remember you need to work additively as much as possible. When working on textures too, it's try to get a reference and to work from there, instead of trying to work from imagination, just like in lesson 2.

Your plant constructions look pretty solid overall, I'll go through the issues I can find so you can keep improving:

-In your first page, you got a branch where you didn't draw the middle line, don't forget to approach them just like you did on the technical exercises, no matter how small they are. On the mushroom you did on this page as well, it's useful to draw a middle axis line to help you allign the ellipses of the mushroom to it, just like in the funnel exercises.

On the same branch where you didn't draw the middle line, remember you need to apply the method explained on the branch section for complex branches explained here.

-On your second page, you got a branch on which you didn't cap off one of its ends with an ellipse, don't forget to do it as it breaks the illusion of 3d a bit. Here as well, just as I told you on the branch exercises, it's a good idea to overlap your strokes with your previous ones too, as you don't do it much, some of your branches end up a bit stiff.

Other than that, I recommend working always as big as you can, as some of the problems you had would have been way easier to attempt if you did so, like you did on your last pages.

In general, I think that doing a drawing per page is a good idea, as it lets you attempt it with more room to think.

Overall pretty good job!

Next Steps:

Keep it up, and next step would be lesson 4! (Thought you've already completed it)

This community member feels the lesson should be marked as complete, and 2 others agree. The student has earned their completion badge for this lesson and should feel confident in moving onto the next lesson.
edited at 9:20 PM, May 27th 2020
3:13 AM, Thursday May 28th 2020

tysm!! Thanks for the feedback :D I'll keep working hard >:)

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Sakura Pigma Microns

Sakura Pigma Microns

A lot of my students use these. The last time I used them was when I was in high school, and at the time I felt that they dried out pretty quickly, though I may have simply been mishandling them. As with all pens, make sure you're capping them when they're not in use, and try not to apply too much pressure. You really only need to be touching the page, not mashing your pen into it.

In terms of line weight, the sizes are pretty weird. 08 corresponds to 0.5mm, which is what I recommend for the drawabox lessons, whereas 05 corresponds to 0.45mm, which is pretty close and can also be used.

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