Lesson 2: Contour Lines, Texture and Construction
12:23 PM, Sunday November 15th 2020
This was a though one! and im glad to have finished it.
Thanks in advance for the critique
Hi there I'll be handling your lesson 2 critique.
You're making good progress towards understanding the concepts introduced in this lesson, below I'll be listing anything I notice that may help you achieve better results in your future attempts.
For the most part your arrows are looking pretty good, my suggestion would be to experiment with foreshortening more. By utilizing foreshortening in the arrow and as well as the negative space in between curves of the arrow we can really sell the illusion of an arrow moving through 3D space, you can read more on these ideas here. There are a few cases where your arrows turn and should have another overlap as well, not overlapping tends to make it look like the arrow is stretching which is definitely something we want to avoid.
Good work keeping your organic forms with contours nice and simple, people often over complicate them. There are a few spots where your arrows or contours themselves could be a bit smoother but this is something that will improve with mileage so I'm not too concerned. It does look like you're attempting to shift the degree of your contours, but just in case you aren't fully conscious of it I'll include this reminder. The degree of a contour line basically represents the orientation of that cross-section in space, relative to the viewer, and as we slide along the sausage form, the cross section is either going to open up (allowing us to see more of it) or turn away from the viewer (allowing us to see less), as shown here.
You're on the right track in the texture exercises, there are a few spots where it looks like you're focused more on outlines than cast shadows (feathers) but it does look like you're trying to focus on cast shadows and making good use of your references. Texture is largely something that comes down to a lot of experimentation and mileage, just remember that by focusing on cast shadows we can create gradients using implied information. This is incredibly beneficial when we want to create focal points to prevent more complicated pieces from becoming too overwhelming.
If you feel like you don't fully grasp the form intersections exercise just yet don't worry, right now this exercise is just meant to get students to start thinking about how their forms relate to one another in 3D space, and how to define those relationships on the page, we'll be going over them more in the upcoming lessons. My only complaints here are that you're missing a page, and that some of your forms don't look as solid as they could and it appears like it could have been you being a bit hasty in your planning stages. Remember that whether you're goal is 1 form or 100 you want to give every line the same amount of planning and line confidence.
As for your organic intersections you kept your forms nice and simple which is great, they could wrap around one another a bit more smoothly but this is a good start. With more mileage you'll find your understanding of 3D space and how these forms interact will grow and you'll have a useful tool to experiment with light and shadow as well. I'm glad to see you push your shadows so they're actually being cast and not just hugging the form creating them, be sure to experiment with different lighting angles in the future as well.
Overall this was a really solid submission, you have a few things to work on here and there but I have no doubt you'll improve wiht more mileage. I believe you've shown a good understanding of what this lesson was trying to teach so I'll be moving you to the next one.
Keep doing previous exercises as warm ups and good luck in lesson 3!
Next Steps:
Do previous exercises as warm ups.
Move on to lesson 3.
This recommendation is really just for those of you who've reached lesson 6 and onwards.
I haven't found the actual brand you buy to matter much, so you may want to shop around. This one is a "master" template, which will give you a broad range of ellipse degrees and sizes (this one ranges between 0.25 inches and 1.5 inches), and is a good place to start. You may end up finding that this range limits the kinds of ellipses you draw, forcing you to work within those bounds, but it may still be worth it as full sets of ellipse guides can run you quite a bit more, simply due to the sizes and degrees that need to be covered.
No matter which brand of ellipse guide you decide to pick up, make sure they have little markings for the minor axes.
This website uses cookies. You can read more about what we do with them, read our privacy policy.