As a whole, this is definitely better. Just a couple things for you to keep in mind as you move forwards:

• Some of your leaf constructions do a good job of building changes onto the existing structure bit by bit, while maintaining that underlying, simpler structure, allowing its solidity to carry forward as we build up the construction. Others, however, have you leaning more towards redrawing the leaf in its entirety - for example, this one where you've visibly replaced the entire earlier structure with a new one with somewhat darker edges. This results in a much weaker relationship between the different phases of construction. Always try to get as much of that previous stage to shine through as you can, allowing it to stand for itself where possible, so as to lend more of its solidity to the next stage.

• I noticed a number of places where you filled the negative space (where you'd cut into the silhouette of a given leaf) with solid black or hatching. You'll note that this is not something we do in the lesson/examples/instructions, so you should not be altering that approach yourself.

• In general, always try to reserve areas of filled black for cast shadow shapes specifically, as that's the assumption the viewer will naturally gravitate towards - that any filled black shape was meant to be a cast shadow. Once they can't make sense of it in that manner, they'll move onto other possibilities, but by that point you've already done some damage to their suspension of disbelief. So- don't use solid black to fill negative space, or the opposite side of a given leaf (that leans more into form shading, where the orientation of the surface impacts whether it's light or dark, which as discussed here is not something we'll employ in this course), or to capture any kind of local/surface colour.

I'll go ahead and mark this lesson as complete.