How are my boxes in organic perspective? Are there any suggestions that you could give? I'm struggling with keeping my foreshortening accurate for small boxes farther from the viewer and properly drawing my boxes when they're close-up (VPs are outside of the paper). Ty in advance.
As stay replied but didn't give you any next steps, I'll go over this as well.
Starting with the sketchbook thing, keep in mind you're going to do hundreds of pages or even thousands of pages in drawabox. This is one of the reasons why copypaper is the recommended tool in the course. If you still want to go for a sketchbook keep in mind that the paper of them tends to kill fineliners faster as well, so try to be careful with that.
About the foreshortening, don't worry too much about it as you'll work on the box challenge. Feel free to ask any questions while you're on it if you have any doubts. You can use both the discord and the questions section on the website for this.
Lines
Saw you had some notes on wrist, elbow and shoulder. Just in case, remember that every mark we do on these exercises must be done in shoulder even if the lines are very small.
I can see your lines are a bit wobbly.
In these exercises, you should always prioritize confidence over accuracy.
A wobbly line will always be worse than a confident line, no matter how off the confident line is.
If you take a look over the ghosted lines notes you'll see the levels of lines:
Level 1: Line is smooth and consistent without any visible wobbling, but doesn't quite pass through A or B, due to not following the right trajectory. It's a straight shot, but misses the mark a bit. Level 2: Line is straight, smooth and consistent without any wobbling and maintains the correct trajectory. It does however either fall short or overshoot one or both points. Level 3: Line is straight, smooth, consistent without any wobbling. It also starts right at one point and ends exactly at the other.
As you can see, wobbly lines aren't mentioned, which means that they would be worse than level 1.
I can also see a bit of arching in some of your lines. This can happen because you might not be using your shoulder as your main pivot, check you're doing it. Another thing that can help to fix this is to try to arch consciously to the the opposite side when drawing the lines.
Ellipses
Ellipses improve over the set, but they're still a bit wobbly too at times. Here as well, focus on making a round smooth confident shape instead of focusing over accuracy. Remember as well that ellipses need to have a line that cuts them in 2 identical halves, so they can't be different in their 2 ends.
Boxes
Good job overall, I'll point out the issues I can see:
-On rough perspective, you seem to have a bit of trouble keeping height lines perpendicular to the horizon line, and width lines parallel to it. I know it's hard, but be sure you keep it in mind while attempting the exercise.
-I think you're also repeating some lines, probably because they were off. Don't do this as it makes the drawing messier.
-On rotated boxes, some of your boxes weren't actually rotating, careful with that, this mistake is explained here.
-And lastly, on organic perspective, I recommend adding lineweight to overlaps to clarify which boxes are on top and which are behind.
Next Steps:
First of all, congratulations on finishing lesson 1! Your next step is the box challenge.
As I marked this as complete, you are now qualified to critique lesson 1 submissions.
-Doing critiques is a way of learning and solidifying concepts. I can atest to that after having done hundreds of critiques. There are a lot of concepts that I did not understand, and thanks to critiquing I started understanding them. Which made me learn a lot more through the course.
-Another thing is that as the number of current submissions is super high, if you critique some critiques, those would be less critiques I'd have to critique before reaching your next submissions, so you'd get your critiques faster. The new system ordering submissions also makes that the more agrees your critiques have the higher you'll be placed in the queue of critiques, which will improve your chances of getting critiques faster as well.
It's totally optional of course, I won't force anyone to give critiques. But me and the other people who are critiquing would be super grateful if you gave it a shot.
Good luck on the box challenge, and keep up the good work!
NOTE: here's a quick guide on critiquing lesson 1 submissions.
There are a few people that feel hesitant to critique because they feel they aren't ready to it so hopefully it'll help you in case you are one of those people.
Thank you so much for the feedback. I greatly appreciate the specific advice! I'll move onto the 250 Box Challenge and try to be more confident w/ my lines. I'll also consider going back to the Rotated Boxes and Ellipses when I have some time.
Your work is very organized, and I appreciate the side notes showing what legnth you were going for, how many strokes, etc. I also think it's a good idea to use loose paper instead of a sketchbook. This way you can keep them together when you need without memorializing them among your more fun and free doodles that should make up the other 50 percent of the time you spend drawing. I noticed some of these in the margins too, and highly recommend keeping those in a different place rather than sprinkling them through your homework. Best of luck and hope you keep posting more assignments!
Thank you for the comment. I appreciate your concern about switching over to loose paper instead of a sketchbook and about my doodles. I normally doodle when I get bored or need a break from the exercise, but I'll get a separate sketchbook for those.
sorry to drag on, maybe I didn't express myself well. I think it's a good idea to do homework on loose paper and keep fun drawing in a sketchbook
This is another one of those things that aren't sold through Amazon, so I don't get a commission on it - but it's just too good to leave out. PureRef is a fantastic piece of software that is both Windows and Mac compatible. It's used for collecting reference and compiling them into a moodboard. You can move them around freely, have them automatically arranged, zoom in/out and even scale/flip/rotate images as you please. If needed, you can also add little text notes.
When starting on a project, I'll often open it up and start dragging reference images off the internet onto the board. When I'm done, I'll save out a '.pur' file, which embeds all the images. They can get pretty big, but are way more convenient than hauling around folders full of separate images.
Did I mention you can get it for free? The developer allows you to pay whatever amount you want for it. They recommend $5, but they'll allow you to take it for nothing. Really though, with software this versatile and polished, you really should throw them a few bucks if you pick it up. It's more than worth it.
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