Lesson 3: Applying Construction to Plants

2:44 PM, Monday April 19th 2021

Drawabox Lesson 3 - Album on Imgur

Direct Link: https://i.imgur.com/5KvyS3s.jpg

Post with 12 views. Drawabox Lesson 3

Hi!

Here is my homework for lesson 3. I had pause for some weeks in the middle of the lesson but I hope this didn't affect the result too much.

Thank you!

0 users agree
12:26 AM, Tuesday April 20th 2021

Starting with your arrows, you're doing a good job of drawing these such that they flow fluidly and smoothly through space. I am noticing however that when you add line weight, it tends to be a little clumsier, because you're drawing those marks more slowly, focusing entirely on tracing over the existing lines. Line weight should be drawn in the same way as the original linework - confidently, using the ghosting method. This may hurt your accuracy, but that's okay - it'll improve with practice. What it will do however is help keep those lines smooth and consistent, while also helping them taper more naturally so they can blend back into the existing linework as shown here.

As a side note, make sure that you're compressing the gaps between the zigzagging sections of your arrows as we look farther back, as shown here.

Continuing onto your leaves, you're definitely capturing these with the same kind of confidence and fluidity, pinning down not only how they sit in space, but also how they move through the space they occupy. That said, I do have a pretty significant concern about how you're approaching building upon those structures to add edge detail.

From what I can see, you're treating each individual phase of construction as an opportunity to redraw each leaf in its entirety, generally with a darker stroke. While I am pleased to see that you're generally using the previous phase of construction as a scaffolding, construction is not about creating full replacements for the structure at every step. Instead, construction is about simply building up the parts that change from one phase to another. In the end, every stage of construction contributes to the end result.

As shown here, in the 3rd step there, I'm not redrawing the entire outer edge of the leaf - I'm merely cutting back into it in order to add the additional structure that the current one can now support.

This is an issue that is present throughout your plants - you lay down structure, but redraw it in its entirety, with darker lines, at each phase of construction, effectively treating previous stages of construction like under drawings that would be erased, were it possible. Sometimes students confuse this with the use of line weight - but as addressed earlier, line weight isn't traced back over the existing linework. It exists only to clarify particular overlaps between forms in specific, localized areas - never to redraw or replace the entire image.

Moving on, your branches have a couple issues:

  • First and foremost, you aren't consistently extending your segments fully halfway to the next ellipse. As explained here, this and the overlap between segments it produces helps us transition more smoothly and seamlessly from one line to the next.

  • It's best to treat the last chunk of the previous segment as a runway, overlapping it directly, rather than drawing your segments where the last one ought to have been. This will make the exercise more difficult, but by forcing you to deal with the little mistakes along the way, you'll learn from them more quickly.

Continuing onto your plant constructions, the point I already addressed - where you're redrawing things far too much, is definitely the main problem. I've addressed this already, but I'm going to touch on it a little more just to be completely clear.

In the case of this form, you initially drew a lighter, more confident ellipse. That is the mark that defines the form you're adding to your construction, and you should not have attempted to trace back over it with a darker stroke. Instead, aim to make the original mark tight and smooth, using the ghosting method to balance confidence and control.

One other point I wanted to share with you actually isn't a mistake - or rather, it's not something I want students to worry about while they go through this lesson, but moving forwards it will become more relevant. When we add more complex edge detail to a leaf, we basically just go in and alter its silhouette by adding little bumps, tears, etc. as needed. Attempting to employ this same approach to add complexity to a form that actually has its own volume, however, doesn't work so well. This cactus is a good example. The cactus itself has a thickness to it, but altering its silhouette will actually cause it to flatten out. With leaves, it's not an issue - they're already flat. But as shown here, in order to build up complexity on a more solid, voluminous form, we need to actually wrap new forms around it.

And finally, one last thing - looking at your homework, it seems to me that the paper you're working with might not be the best choice for the work we're doing in this course. I can't be sure, but from the little hairs I can see in the photos, it seems like you're using paper that is probably better suited to working with dry media (graphite, charcoal, etc). That kind of paper is not intended to be used with pens. It'll drain your ink more quickly, and will result in less consistent marks.

As explained back in Lesson 0, it really is best that you stick to smooth printer paper for this course, as it will be much kinder to your pens.

Anyway, I'm going to assign some revisions below, for you to address the issues I've pointed out here.

Next Steps:

Please submit the following:

  • 1 page of branches

  • 4 pages of plant constructions

When finished, reply to this critique with your revisions.
12:19 AM, Thursday May 13th 2021

Hi! First of all, thanks for the thorough feedback! And sorry for taking so long to answer. These last couple weeks were kinda crazy at work and it was hard to find the time to properly sit down and do the lessons.

Here is the link for the drawings:

https://imgur.com/a/VCSMNAj

In this new submission, I tried to pay attention and address all the issues you pointed out. I really hope it has improved.

About the paper: I'm using smooth recycled A4 printer paper. Is it a problem? I have never noticed any difference between it and white paper in terms of drawing or writing. I would prefer to continue using it because I have lots of blank pages lying around l but if it is better for the lessons, I can try to buy some white paper.

6:03 PM, Thursday May 13th 2021

This is definitely a big move in the right direction. Just one thing to avoid is your tendency to make marks from later constructional steps darker than those from the earlier ones. The goal isn't to have them stand out any more - that's something you do with line weight, specifically to clarify overlaps between forms, and it's a whole separate decision making process of its own. When working through the main constructional steps, drawing with the same amount of pressure, just focusing on making all of your marks confident and not going out of your way to press harder or more lightly, will help make your drawing as a whole look more cohesive.

As for your paper, it should be fine. Just keep an eye on how it behaves with your pen. If you find it absorbing a lot of ink, or tending to make scratchier marks, then those are signs that it's not a good fit for these kinds of drawing.

Anyway, I'll go ahead and mark this lesson as complete.

Next Steps:

Move onto lesson 4.

This critique marks this lesson as complete.
The recommendation below is an advertisement. Most of the links here are part of Amazon's affiliate program (unless otherwise stated), which helps support this website. It's also more than that - it's a hand-picked recommendation of something I've used myself. If you're interested, here is a full list.
PureRef

PureRef

This is another one of those things that aren't sold through Amazon, so I don't get a commission on it - but it's just too good to leave out. PureRef is a fantastic piece of software that is both Windows and Mac compatible. It's used for collecting reference and compiling them into a moodboard. You can move them around freely, have them automatically arranged, zoom in/out and even scale/flip/rotate images as you please. If needed, you can also add little text notes.

When starting on a project, I'll often open it up and start dragging reference images off the internet onto the board. When I'm done, I'll save out a '.pur' file, which embeds all the images. They can get pretty big, but are way more convenient than hauling around folders full of separate images.

Did I mention you can get it for free? The developer allows you to pay whatever amount you want for it. They recommend $5, but they'll allow you to take it for nothing. Really though, with software this versatile and polished, you really should throw them a few bucks if you pick it up. It's more than worth it.

This website uses cookies. You can read more about what we do with them, read our privacy policy.