Lesson 5: Applying Construction to Animals

1:46 PM, Tuesday April 5th 2022

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Lesson 5 complete!

I just have one question - when drawing fur, should it be applied where the forms underneath overlap?

Thank you!

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7:02 PM, Wednesday April 6th 2022
edited at 7:22 PM, Apr 6th 2022

Starting with your organic intersections, nice work! One thing to keep in mind however is that this exercise focuses on creating a believable, three dimensional pile of forms all interacting with one another in space, under the force of gravity. Try to avoid adding forms that defy the laws of gravity - basically anything that gives the impression that in the next moment, the pile's going to change/move. So for example, this one at the top here, and this arrangement here.

Continuing onto your animal constructions, there's a lot of good stuff here, and I can see that you've made an effort to use a lot of the techniques, tools, and demonstrations from the lesson when working through these constructions. There are some points I can suggest to help you improve and generally make better use of these drawing exercises, but as a whole I do think you're moving in the right direction here.

There are a few things that stand out to me most:

  • You're holding very firmly to the idea that these drawings are exercises, and that the focus is on how you build up your constructions through the addition of new forms, establishing how they relate to the existing structure - either with a contour line in the case of a form penetrating another (to define the intersection line between them), or through the design of the new form's silhouette, to establish how it actually wraps around the existing structure. This second one can definitely be improved, and we'll talk about this further, but overall I'm very pleased with how much you've focused on using the technique.

  • Your head construction approaches shows a strong grasp of 3D space, and how construction is all about building up a puzzle, one piece at a time. You're focusing a great deal on establishing those spatial relationships, and don't fall into the temptation to draw what you see, which tends to result in drawing way more complex shapes that don't feel solidly 3D.

So the first area in which your approaches here can be improved is to look at the specific way in which we can think about designing those additional masses' silhouettes. You're already doing this fairly well, but there are some key points that will help take it further.

One thing that helps with the shape here is to think about how the mass would behave when existing first in the void of empty space, on its own. It all comes down to the silhouette of the mass - here, with nothing else to touch it, our mass would exist like a soft ball of meat or clay, made up only of outward curves. A simple circle for a silhouette.

Then, as it presses against an existing structure, the silhouette starts to get more complex. It forms inward curves wherever it makes contact, responding directly to the forms that are present. The silhouette is never random, of course - always changing in response to clear, defined structure. You can see this demonstrated in this diagram.

There are a lot of elements of this you're already using (as I mentioned), but there are two key issues:

  • You have a tendency to put corners (a form of complexity) in areas where they don't actually press up against anything else in order to form that complexity. The strongest example I could find of this was ion this bear - although honestly I think you improved in your use of additional masses over the set, so we're going to look at this giraffe instead where the issue isn't quite so clear cut. So for example, we've got these sharp corners here on the neck. Instead, note here how I would design that silhouette. And then from there you can steadily build up more structure as shown here - if we have a specific mass we're pressing up against, we can use inward curves and sharp corners, but unless that mass has been defined already, then we have to use the more gradual, smoother corners.

  • When building upon your animals' legs, you're more prone to actively avoiding inward curves and sharp corners altogether, resulting in a lot of blobby shapes that don't quite "grip" the sausage structure underneath. Again this is most prominent in that bear I linked in the previous point, but we can also see it to a lesser degree in your elephant's legs as well.

The only other thing I wanted to call out is that you do have a tendency to slap down some contour lines that don't strictly serve a purpose. You don't do this especially often, but it does come up here and there - for example, here on this shark's underbelly. I think these are likely situations where the silhouette of those additional masses (again seemingly avoiding sharp corners and inward curves) wasn't quite right, so it felt flat, and you tried addressing it with contour lines. In this case I would still avoid the contour lines for two reasons:

  • They don't actually help establish how those masses relate to the existing structure, so while they do a little to make it feel more 3D in isolation, it doesn't actually solve the problem at hand.

  • They do however train our brain to think that when we don't design the silhouette correctly, we can still "fix" the issue. This encourages us to spend less effort/attention on the silhouette design in turn, which merely exacerbates those issues.

I am largely quite pleased to see that you appear to have leveraged major elements from the informal head construction demo. While you don't follow it all the way each time (for example, you might neglect to define the forehead here and there), you are holding to its core principles, and to great effect. I would still encourage you to try to apply that particular approach when doing constructional drawing exercises using animals in the future, as closely as you can. Sometimes it seems like it's not a good fit for certain heads, but with a bit of finagling it can still apply pretty well. To demonstrate this for another student, I found the most banana-headed rhinoceros I could, and threw together this demo.

I also wanted to give you this basic breakdown of how I'd approach constructing an elephant. Not because you need it, but because I'd made it recently and I feel like it wouldn't hurt to see how I might approach constructions similar to those you'd done yourself.

All in all there are points to work on, but I'm pleased with your progress, and I feel you should be good to address these on your own. So, I'll go ahead and mark this lesson as complete.

Edit: I just remembered that I did not answer your question about fur - although I'm not sure I fully understand your question. Could you provide an example?

Next Steps:

Feel free to move onto the 250 cylinder challenge.

This critique marks this lesson as complete.
edited at 7:22 PM, Apr 6th 2022
8:38 AM, Sunday April 10th 2022

Thank you for your feedback!

About the question - I think I was just confused with what I read in this raccoon demo and did not understand it:

https://d15v304a6xpq4b.cloudfront.net/lesson_images/c39be950.jpg

So fur should be applied in the shadow/light transition areas and around the silhouette and the planes closest to the viewer should remain blank?

5:14 PM, Monday April 11th 2022

So that demo is admittedly from quite a long time ago, so it's a little loose and due for an update with the overhaul - but your conclusions are still largely accurate. The thing to keep in mind most of all is that the goal here is not to draw all of the fur in your reference image. The goal is to convey the impression that this animal is intended to be furry, and that has a far lower bar to achieve. All we need to do is provide enough fur to inform the viewer's mind what they're looking at, and it'll fill the rest. And so from there, we try and find where we can add that fur that will require fewer actual marks, but will convey the strongest impression.

First we can achieve that most of all at the silhouette, because that's what the viewer's eye catches before anything else, and thus has the greatest impact. Purposefully designed tufts - each one given its own separate effort, rather than trying to repeat the same motif on autopilot.

From there, if we need a little more, we can look at the areas where there might traditionally be some more prominent form shading that would give us an excuse to add some texture - because texture can create gradients of density, which can given the tools we're using in this course (full black with the fineliners, full white from the paper, and nothing in between) be a great opportunity to slip in some texture. Just keep in mind that the goal here is not to convey the form shading - it's to convey the texture. It's easy to get roped up into the mindset that we want to add lots of form shading (in pursuit of decoration), and just end up scribbling the gradients, instead of focusing on the gradient itself and each individually designed cast shadow shape.

Of course, given that texture of this sort is made up of the shadows cast by our textural forms, it helps to focus on the fur in groupings of strands, as this gives us something with a little more volume, and thus something more substantial from which to derive our cast shadows.

Lastly - remember that the cast shadows we draw are not copied from the reference, but rather are drawn based on our understanding of how the textural form we're introducing to the drawing relates to the surfaces and forms around it. So we look at our reference to understand the nature of the form, as it exists in 3D space, and we use that understanding to design our cast shadow shapes. We do not identify cast shadow shapes in our reference and transfer them directly, as this is an action of looking at a 2D element in the photo, and capturing it as a 2D element on the drawing, without ever having understood it in 3D.

Hope that helps!

9:06 AM, Tuesday April 12th 2022

Thank you for your explanation!

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