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8:02 PM, Wednesday August 10th 2022

I can see that you've made an effort to address some of the things I called out - like the tendency to redraw way more of your leaves than you need to when adding edge detail - but there are quite a few signs that show that while it's probably not intentional, you are not yet giving yourself nearly enough time to execute each and every mark to the best of your current ability.

We can see this especially when it comes to adding edge detail, because you're not giving yourself the time you need to ensure that each of these new additions rises off the existing edge and returns to it in as seamless a manner you can manage.

For example, as we can see here, your edge detail marks are frequently doubled up (which suggests that you're not adhering to the principles of markmaking from Lesson 1, and not using the ghosting method to individually plan, and prepare each stroke). They also tend to shoot right past the existing edge, creating a bunch of separate marks but not creating a single cohesive silhouette. While this is considerably better, we can definitely see the kind of little gaps and sloppiness that make it clear you could have put more time in and created a more cohesive silhouette, had you chosen to.

I can understand that you may still be under the impression that you should be able to put these marks down quickly and fluidly, but that is not what we're doing in this course. Every single mark we put down here needs to be planned and prepared for. It needs to all be the result of forethought and consideration, and so each mark takes time. It's this kind of practice, this kind of intentional drawing, that we do throughout this course that allows us to draw with a lot more control when we do draw more fluidly elsewhere. We take our time here, so we can learn to be faster and more efficient outside of these exercises.

This generally sketchy approach is quite apparent throughout your plant constructions as well, although I've also noticed that there are points you haven't really addressed:

  • When it comes to your branches, there are quite a few places where you aren't extending your edge segments fully halfway to the next ellipse. I actually noted that you were doing decently at this before, but didn't quite end up with as much overlap as was needed in a few places. Here you appear to have minimized that overlap more frequently - so in that sense, you kind of slid back. Please take note of the specific instructions demonstrated here and follow them to the letter.

  • You still appear to be entirely inconsistent with your flower pots. Sometimes you'll draw them around a central minor axis line, sometimes you won't. Sometimes you'll add additional ellipses to flesh out more of the structure, sometimes you'll limit it to the basic cylinder with an ellipse at both ends. I don't get the impression that you're really consciously applying the point I raised about this in my previous critique.

As a whole, you're just not giving yourself enough time to apply my feedback consistently, or to construct your forms, design your shapes, and execute each and every mark to the best of your ability. You have improved on this front, don't get me wrong - you're in many areas a lot less sketchy, and that's a big improvement to be sure - but I think your expectation is still different from what's being asked. You're still showing a tendency towards trying to put your marks down quickly and reflexively, and you're definitely still not applying the ghosting method nearly as completely and consistently as you need to, resulting in marks that are drawn more quickly, marks that are repeated, and so on.

I'm going to ask that you go back over my past feedback, and take notes on the specific points I've raised so you do not forget to address them. Then, complete the same revisions I assigned before once again.

Also, in regards to the bonsai tree, that is definitely a more complicated problem that we don't really address in this lesson, simply because the lesson itself isn't about learning how to draw plants - it's about using plants as a lens through which to look at these kinds of core constructional problems. So there are definitely cases that get left out (like handling tree tops). While I don't have anything against students trying them out, in your case it may be better to focus on simpler plants that line up with the demos so you don't have to worry about both being more mindful of how you're executing your marks and tackling things that aren't addressed as specifically in the lesson, at the same time.

Next Steps:

Please attempt the same revisions again.

When finished, reply to this critique with your revisions.
11:18 PM, Friday August 19th 2022

Occasionally* i would slip up and quickly redo a line out of habit after it not coming out the way i intended. Some of my elipses are a bit messed, but i did make more of an effort to breathe and ghost lines but i lack consistency.

https://imgur.com/a/xV4mWEp

5:40 PM, Monday August 22nd 2022

Overall you're doing quite a bit better. I do however want to call out one issue that remains - as shown here you're still frequently neglecting to extend your edge segments fully halfway to the next ellipse.

Anyway, you can continue working on that on your own. I'll go ahead and mark this lesson as complete.

Next Steps:

Move onto lesson 4.

This critique marks this lesson as complete.
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Sakura Pigma Microns

Sakura Pigma Microns

A lot of my students use these. The last time I used them was when I was in high school, and at the time I felt that they dried out pretty quickly, though I may have simply been mishandling them. As with all pens, make sure you're capping them when they're not in use, and try not to apply too much pressure. You really only need to be touching the page, not mashing your pen into it.

In terms of line weight, the sizes are pretty weird. 08 corresponds to 0.5mm, which is what I recommend for the drawabox lessons, whereas 05 corresponds to 0.45mm, which is pretty close and can also be used.

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