0 users agree
10:26 PM, Wednesday May 4th 2022

Starting with your arrows, your base linework here is quite confident, which lays down a foundation to help establish how they move fluidly through the world. This is however somewhat impeded when you add line weight, as you generally do so with a bit more hesitation, focusing on tracing over these lines as they exist on the page, rather than doing so confidently, using the ghosting method. Of course, doing it confidently can often result in little deviations (which is why students are prone to hesitating here), but those mistakes are normal, and need to be accepted as part of the process. They'll go away with practice, but only if you allow them to happen.

That hesitation does carry over into your leaves, unfortunately - instead of being built around a central flow line that really pushes the sense of how each leaf moves through the space it occupies, the linework is a touch stiff, focusing more on how it exists flat against the page itself. One thing thata can help with this is to add a little arrow head on the tip of the flow line (you'll actually see me doing this in the diagram for this exercise). Doing this can help establish a mental link between this exercise and the arrows before it, helping you to focus more on how you're capturing not only a stiff, static object, but something that represents actual motion.

When it comes to building up more complex edge detail, you're generally doing this well, although I strongly urge you to avoid increasing the thickness of your linework as you progress through the phases of construction, as you've done here. This can encourage us to feel as though we're meant to redraw the entire leaf at each stage, instead of allowing the elements from earlier steps to stand for themselves where they can. Line weight can always be added in after the fact, but more towards establishing how different forms in the construction overlap one another, as shown here.

Lastly, when approaching construction in general, always focus on maintaining tight, specific relationships between each phase of construction. As I've highlighted on the right here, you've got an arbitrary gap between both existing sections of construction from previous stages, as you try and merge the sub-leafs together. Instead, you should be following the trajectory of the existing edges more closely, as shown on the right. This helps maintain a tighter relationship between those steps, and helps us transfer more of that solidity from the simpler stage forwards as we build up greater complexity.

Continuing onto your branches, you're generally doing a good job here, but I have a couple things for you to focus on:

  • Be sure that every edge segment starts at the previous ellipse, continues past the next, and stops halfway to the third. You often fall short of extending fully to that midpoint, and on occasion you've got a few cases where you don't start far back enough either. This is intended to achieve a healthy overlap between the segments, which helps to achieve a smoother, more seamless transition from one to the next.

  • Also, when drawing the next segment, try to overlap the last chunk of the previous one, treating it like a runway, rather than drawing your new segment where the last one ought to have been. This will make things a bit harder, but it'll also allow you to benefit more from the exercise. You can see this demonstrated here in the instructions.

Continuing onto your plant constructions, overall you're doing fairly decently, though there are a few things I want to call out:

  • Firstly, while you've done a great job when it comes to drawing every single little petal here in this cherry blossom, there are a couple things to keep an eye on. One comes down to the fact that with each of these petals, you started at a slightly more complex stage than you should have, as shown here. Additionally, you tended to leave gaps between the end of the flow line and the tip of next stage of the petal's construction - this is an arbitrary gap which results in a weaker relationship from one stage of construction to the next. Circling back to the first point about the skipped step, it's very clear to me that you chose to do this, and that you did know better. You were simply deciding that since you had so many petals to construct, eliminating one step would make that easier, and it would have been even more nightmarish to add yet another step to every single petal. Unfortunately, that is what this course requires of you - we are not allowed to skip any steps. What we can do however is choose to focus in on a specific section of the reference image - a particular cluster of flowers or leaves or what have you - in order to both explore them at a much greater size on the page (which itself also helps engage our whole arm while drawing, and also makes it easier to think through spatial problems). You choose the scale of the problem you wish to deal with - but once chosen, you are committed to exploring it in its entirety, with all of its steps, executing each and every mark to the best of your ability, regardless of whether it's one line of ten, or one line of a thousand. Of course, this means that we may not be able to complete a given drawing in the time that we have for a single sitting - but there's nothing that states you can't spread a single construction across multiple sittings and days, in order to fulfill our obligation of giving each construction as much time as it requires of us.

  • Secondly, I can see that with this drawing you were following along with the hibiscus demo, but there are pretty significant discrepancies from the instructions shown in that demo video, and the steps you've followed here. On one hand, there's the matter of weaker relationships between the phases of construction. In the demo, we lay out the ellipse to start, which defines how far out our petals will extend. Then we draw our flow lines extending to the perimeter of that ellipse, and then the petal structures which end where their corresponding flow line does. All of these steps are tightly bound to one another - but you appeared to draw your ellipse, then drew your flow lines such that they shot past its perimeter, and then drew the individual petal structures such that they blew past the end of the flow lines as well. Furthermore, you also went pretty heavy with your filled areas of solid black, using it somewhat arbitrarily at times. That's something we're going to talk about a bit more in a moment, but in general when following along with a demonstration, it's best that you do just that - follow the demo, as closely as you can, and avoid your own experimentation. The purpose of a demo after all is to put yourself in the headspace of the instructor, and to tackle the problem as they do, so you can learn to apply that same methodology when working from your own references.

The last thing I want to talk about is how you're dealing with the 'detail' phase of your drawing - that is, once you're done with your construction. It seems that your focus is generally on 'decorating' your drawings, which effectively means that you're doing what you can to make them more visually pleasing, usually by looking for reasons to put down more ink. Unfortunately, decoration is not a very clear goal - there's no specific point at which "enough" decoration has been added, and so it often leaves us floundering for what to do next.

What we're doing in this course can be broken into two distinct sections - construction and texture - and they both focus on the same concept. With construction we're communicating to the viewer what they need to know to understand how they might manipulate this object with their hands, were it in front of them. With texture, we're communicating to the viewer what they need to know to understand what it'd feel like to run their fingers over the object's various surfaces. Both of these focus on communicating three dimensional information. Both sections have specific jobs to accomplish, and none of it has to do with making the drawing look nice.

Instead of focusing on decoration, what we draw here comes down to what is actually physically present in our construction, just on a smaller scale. As discussed back in Lesson 2's texture section, we focus on each individual textural form, focusing on them one at a time and using the information present in the reference image to help identify and understand how every such textural form sits in 3D space, and how it relates within that space to its neighbours. Once we understand how the textural form sits in the world, we then design the appropriate shadow shape that it would cast on its surroundings. The shadow shape is important, because it's that specific shape which helps define the relationship between the form casting it, and the surface receiving it.

As a result of this approach, you'll find yourself thinking less about excuses to add more ink, and instead you'll be working in the opposite - trying to get the information across while putting as little ink down as is strictly needed, and using those implicit markmaking techniques from Lesson 2 to help you with that.

Now, I am going to assign some minimal revisions, so you can apply what I've shared with you here and demonstrate your understanding before I move you onwards. You'll find them listed below.

Next Steps:

Please submit the following:

  • 1 page of leaves

  • 3 pages of plant constructions

When finished, reply to this critique with your revisions.
11:21 AM, Sunday May 8th 2022

Thanks for all your hard work on this! At first I found it quite difficult to draw leaves smoothly, but thanks to the ghosting method and the arrow head, it has become much easier. Also, I tried as hard as i could to build constructions without skipping any steps, though it took much more time than before. For the texture part, I will try my best to limit the ink used at this step. Here is the revision : https://imgur.com/a/ltY17L5

1:18 AM, Tuesday May 10th 2022

Your aloe vera came along quite well, with just two main things to call out, neither of which came up in the previous feedback:

  • Be sure to construct any cylindrical structures around a central minor axis line, so as to help you align your ellipses together

  • Instead of leaving the bottom of the pot open-ended, when you have a form being cut off the side of the page, cap it off - in this case, with an ellipse. This will reinforce the illusion that we're looking at something solid and 3D, whereas leaving it open ended reminds us that it is in fact just lines on a page.

I do have some concerns to raise in regards to the other pages as well.

  • If you take a look at this leaf, the line I've highlighted in red is a single stroke, zigzagging back and forth. To start with, this results in arbitrary gaps as highlighted here - which is exactly what we avoid when it comes to "not skipping steps" - but more importantly, this approach contradicts this point on zigzagging from the notes. Those notes pertain more to zigzagging around the line itself, but they do state that every new bump of edge detail should be its own separate stroke, which is also a big part of this principle of markmaking from Lesson 1.

  • While in the previous point, you technically weren't skipping steps - you were neglecting to keep the relationships between them tight and specific - this one's a case where you indeed skipped the simpler edge, jumping right into the wavy edge detail. These issues are related - because without the first, you wouldn't have dropped that important step of establishing a simpler edge first.

  • Similarly, while you definitely made an attempt to avoid skipping steps here (you drew the basic leaf structure, then added the detail at the tips), you unfortunately still did skip steps. We can tell because there are still more arbitrary relationships being put down. As shown here, you're missing step 3. Ostensibly you also could have constructed the initial leaf structure so it was more rounded at the tip, bringing that flow line back rather than extending it as far as I did to achieve a more "pointed" tip. But, using the approach you did, you'd need that extra step in between.

  • Also on that same page, I noted that you were leaving arbitrary gaps between the flow line and the tip of the leaf structure from the next step. Always keep your relationships tight and specific.

  • Throughout the branch structures on this page, you're still minimizing the overlap between the edge segments. Each edge segment starts at an ellipse, and stops halfway to another ellipse, as discussed in my previous feedback.

The last thing I wanted to mention is that you're still largely approaching detail from a "decoration" standpoint, in that you don't appear to be thinking about the specific forms that are present - the textural forms that you're trying to imply. Rather, you're still putting down a lot of arbitrary marks.

As a rule, going forward, when you put any textural marks down, approach all of them with a two-step process, first outlining their shape, and then filling it in. You can see a demonstration of this in the section of this video where I talk about brush pens. That link is timestamped, so it should take you right there - but if it doesn't, it's around 14:13.

This approach will help because designing that shadow shape first will force you to think about what exactly its job is meant to be, and what form is meant to be casting it. Remember - you're not drawing the things you see in your reference image. You're looking at your reference image to identify the textural forms that are there, to understand how they sit in space. The shadows you draw to imply them are based on this understanding, as explained here.

Also, in regards to better understanding the concept of working with cast shadows, you may want to compare how you approach the veins of your leaves, to how they're done in the leaf exercise instructions.

All in all, you've made some steps in the right direction, but all in all, there is still lots of room for improvement. You'll find more revisions assigned below.

Next Steps:

Please submit the following:

  • 1 page, half of leaves, half of branches

  • 2 pages of plant constructions

It's best you not do these all on the same day.

When finished, reply to this critique with your revisions.
12:07 PM, Thursday May 12th 2022
edited at 12:09 PM, May 12th 2022

I feel that this revision is even worse than my previous one :( Here is the link:https://imgur.com/a/xx1Q7Cr

edited at 12:09 PM, May 12th 2022
View more comments in this thread
The recommendation below is an advertisement. Most of the links here are part of Amazon's affiliate program (unless otherwise stated), which helps support this website. It's also more than that - it's a hand-picked recommendation of something I've used myself. If you're interested, here is a full list.
Staedtler Pigment Liners

Staedtler Pigment Liners

These are what I use when doing these exercises. They usually run somewhere in the middle of the price/quality range, and are often sold in sets of different line weights - remember that for the Drawabox lessons, we only really use the 0.5s, so try and find sets that sell only one size.

Alternatively, if at all possible, going to an art supply store and buying the pens in person is often better because they'll generally sell them individually and allow you to test them out before you buy (to weed out any duds).

This website uses cookies. You can read more about what we do with them, read our privacy policy.