0 users agree
6:42 PM, Wednesday December 21st 2022

Hello GatlingBear, I'll be the teaching assistant handling your lesson 5 critique.

Starting with your organic intersections you're doing a good job of keeping your forms simple, and they're wrapping around each other with a sense of gravity. Your forms feel stable and supported, even with the height you achieved with one of your piles, which is great.

In the future I'd like you to draw through all of your forms. Much like when we drew through our boxes earlier drawing through these organic forms will help us develop a better understanding of the 3D space we're attempting to create. It really will help you get more out of this exercise by drawing every form in it’s entirety instead of allowing some of them to get cut off where they go behind another form.

You've done a good job with your shadows, you're generally pushing them far enough that they cast onto the form below. The first page follows a consistent light source but the second page isn't quite so consistent. I made some edits to the second page here choosing one shadow and making more of the shadows cast in that same direction. I extended some of your shadows in red, and pushed others back with blue.

Moving on to your animal constructions you're showing a developing understanding of how your constructions exist in 3D space, but there are some things that could be improved, some of which have been brought up in your critiques before, suggesting you may need to spend more time rereading or referring back to the information that has been shared with you.

First, make sure that every line you draw in these exercises is the result of a conscious decision. Take your time to plan, ghost and execute each mark to the best of your current ability. Do your best to connect everything together with specific relationships. Do not arbitrarily or reactively redraw your lines, and do not scratch multiple little marks together where one line would do. Please refer back to the principles of markmaking to remind yourself what we're aiming for. Here are a few examples of broken, disconnected lines on your horse.

Second, once you've put a form down on the page, do not attempt to alter its silhouette. Please refer back to your lesson 4 critique for an explanation as to why, and examples of how to build on your construction with additional forms instead. Occasionally you're still cutting into your forms, as marked in red on your bear. Much more prevalent is your tendency to extend your constructions with one off lines or partial shapes. I've marked a couple of them in blue on this construction as well as establishing a more solid connection between the head and the body.

The third point that we've covered previously is leg construction. It looks like you've used a variety of strategies for drawing the legs of your animals. While there are some different techniques being used for legs in the various demos, given how the course has developed, the method that is currently deemed most effective is sausage method. I went over the virtues of this method in your lesson 4 critique, as well as providing diagrams to help you use it and quite clearly stressing that this technique is still to be used throughout lesson 5 as well. I can see that you're trying to use the sausage method on some of your pages, your deer and alligator(crocodile?) show some pretty good attempts at sticking to simple sausage forms and connecting them together with a contour curve at the joints. This one is quite a long way from what we're asking for, I made a quick edit for you here. Some other issues I can see are using ellipses instead of sausage forms, starting with forms that are too complex, and forgetting the intersection at the joints. If you're looking for a good example of leg construction in the lesson material, I recommend you follow the donkey demo from the informal demos page. There's also this dog demo that I put together for another student. You can see this in action with this draw over on your horse.

Right, so with all that out of the way, let's get to the particulars of lesson 5. Where the concept of adding whole forms to our constructions was introduced in lesson 4, in lesson 5 we get a bit more specific about how we design the shape of these forms.

One thing that helps with the shape here is to think about how the mass would behave when existing first in the void of empty space, on its own. It all comes down to the silhouette of the mass - here, with nothing else to touch it, our mass would exist like a soft ball of meat or clay, made up only of outward curves. A simple circle for a silhouette.

Then, as it presses against an existing structure, the silhouette starts to get more complex. It forms inward curves wherever it makes contact, responding directly to the forms that are present. The silhouette is never random, of course - always changing in response to clear, defined structure. You can see this demonstrated in this diagram.

So for example, I've marked on your bear where you did a good job of wrapping an additional mass around the thigh, and redrew some 2D extensions to have their own complete, fully enclosed silhouette. I took advantage of the large mass of the shoulder- which is a simplification of some of the big muscles that help the animal to walk- to wrap these masses around. The more interlocked they are, the more spatial relationships we define between the masses, the more solid and grounded everything appears.

I noticed when you do use additional masses that there are cases where you're using a lot of contour lines to try and make your masses feel more solid - unfortunately however, this is actually working against you. Those contour lines serve to help a particular mass feel 3D, but in isolation. With additional masses, our goal is actually to make the forms feel 3D by establishing how they wrap around and relate to the existing structure - that is something we achieve entirely through the design of their silhouette. While adding lines that don't contribute isn't the worst thing in the world, there is actually a more significant downside to using them in this way. They can convince us that we have something we can do to "fix" our additional masses after the fact, which in turn can cause us to put less time and focus into designing them in the first place (with the intent of "fixing" it later). So, I would actively avoid using additional contour lines in the future (though you may have noticed Uncomfortable use them in the intro video for this lesson, something that will be corrected once the overhaul of the demo material reaches this far into the course - you can think of these critiques as a sort of sneak-peak that official critique students get in the meantime).

Whenever you're adding contour lines to your construction in general, consider the following:

Contour lines themselves fall into two categories. You've got those that sit along the surface of a single form (this is how they were first introduced in the organic forms with contour lines exercise, because it is the easiest way to do so), and you've got those that define the relationship and intersection between multiple forms - like those from the form intersections exercise. By their very nature, the form intersection type only really allows you to draw one such contour line per intersection, but the first type allows you to draw as many as you want. The question comes down to this: how many do you really need?"

Unfortunately, that first type of contour line suffers from diminishing returns. The first one you add will probably help a great deal in making that given form feel three dimensional. The second however will help much less - but this still may be enough to be useful. The third, the fourth... their effectiveness and contribution will continue to drop off sharply, and you're very quickly going to end up in a situation where adding another will not help. I find it pretty rare that more than two is really necessary. Anything else just becomes excessive.

Be sure to consider this when you go through the planning phase of the contour lines you wish to add. Ask yourself what they're meant to contribute. Furthermore, ask yourself if you can actually use the second (form intersection) type instead - these are by their very nature vastly more effective, because of how they actually define the relationship between forms. This relationship causes each form to reinforce the other, solidifying the illusion that they exist in three dimensions. They'll often make the first type somewhat obsolete in many cases.

The next thing I wanted to talk about is head construction. Lesson 5 has a lot of different strategies for constructing heads, between the various demos. Given how the course has developed, and how Uncomfortable is finding new, more effective ways for students to tackle certain problems. So not all the approaches shown are equal, but they do have their uses. As it stands, as explained at the top of the tiger demo page (here), the current approach that is the most generally useful, as well as the most meaningful in terms of these drawings all being exercises in spatial reasoning, is what you'll find here in this informal head demo.

There are a few key points to this approach:

1- The specific shape of the eye sockets - the specific pentagonal shape allows for a nice wedge in which the muzzle can fit in between the sockets, as well as a flat edge across which we can lay the forehead area.

2- This approach focuses heavily on everything fitting together - no arbitrary gaps or floating elements. This allows us to ensure all of the different pieces feel grounded against one another, like a three dimensional puzzle.

3- We have to be mindful of how the marks we make are cuts along the curving surface of the cranial ball - working in individual strokes like this (rather than, say, drawing the eye socket with an ellipse) helps a lot in reinforcing this idea of engaging with a 3D structure.

Try your best to employ this method when doing constructional drawing exercises using animals in the future, as closely as you can. Sometimes it seems like it's not a good fit for certain heads, but as shown in in this banana-headed rhino it can be adapted for a wide array of animals.

Finally when it comes to fur make sure every mark you add serves a purpose. If you choose to add a mark, make sure it is actively contributing to your drawing and not done mindlessly or repetitively for the sake of it. Remember to leave the interior sparse and design each tuft individually.

Conclusion There are some things from your previous critique that have not been applied as faithfully as I had hoped, and that are undermining your efforts to follow the instructions in this lesson. So, I'll be asking you to complete some revisions to demonstrate that you can understand and apply the feedback that has been provided. Of course if anything that has been said to you here, or previously, is unclear, you are welcome to ask questions.

Additionally, I'd like you to adhere to the following restrictions when approaching these revisions:

1- Don't work on more than one construction in a day. You can and should absolutely spread a single construction across multiple sittings or days if that's what you need to do the work to the best of your current ability (taking as much time as you need to construct each form, draw each shape, and execute each mark), but if you happen to just put the finishing touches on one construction, don't start the next one until the following day. This is to encourage you to push yourself to the limits of how much you're able to put into a single construction, and avoid rushing ahead into the next.

2- Write down beside each construction the dates of the sessions you spent on it, along with a rough estimate of how much time you spent in that session.

Please complete 5 pages of animal constructions.

Next Steps:

Please complete 5 pages of animal constructions.

When finished, reply to this critique with your revisions.
3:27 AM, Thursday December 29th 2022

Hey,

once again thank you for your extensive feedback.

I actually feel bad for having you type out the same info once again after you already did so in the lesson 4 feedback. I tried to follow the instructions more closely in the additional animal constructions, hope it shows.

https://imgur.com/a/OvJhiBb

9:25 PM, Thursday December 29th 2022

Hello GatlingBear, no problem, thank you for replying with your revisions.

I can see a notable improvement in your markmaking, most of your lines are looking deliberate. There are a few places where some lines were repeated of redrawn unnecessarily, so it is something you'll want to stay focused on. It's easy to slip into repeating lines if it's something you habitually do, try to be mindful of every mark you make and consider what it is contributing to your drawing. Some pages are better than others, this llama mostly has smooth continuous lines, but this squirrel gets a bit scratchy in places. Also remember to draw through your ellipses two full times before lifting your pen, even if you feel like you can nail them in a single pass. This is something we ask you to do throughout the course, as introduced here.

I can see that you're using the sausage method more consistently now, good work. You're doing well at using simple sausage forms and remembering to use a contour curve at the joints, which is a great start. The way you're building onto that base armature of sausage forms does need some work though.

Right now, most of the additions you make to your legs are done with lines, instead of complete forms, please refer back to this diagram. I also have this diagram which is another way Uncomfortable explains the same concept. Remember when you add a form to your drawing it should have its own complete, fully enclosed silhouette. I've marked on your horse in blue where you're extending your construction with lines, and in green where you did a good job of using an additional mass. I did notice that you've stopped adding extra contour lines to your additional masses to try to make them feel 3D after you've already drawn them, which is great.

So, here I've redrawn some of the places where you extended your construction with lines to be new forms with their own complete silhouettes. Remember we are not thinking about drawing single lines on a flat piece of paper when we do these constructional exercises. We are creating a 3D illusion, and you need to believe your own lie. You may have noticed that I also drew a larger ellipse for your shoulder mass. This is a simplification of some of the bulky muscles that allow the animal to walk, so don't be afraid to be more generous with it. This shoulder mass is also a really useful structure to wrap your additional masses around and help them feel anchored and secure. While I was there I also established a 3D connection where the muzzle attaches to the cranial ball.

You seem to be having a touch of trouble sticking to the specific shape of the eye sockets from the informal head demo. the specific pentagonal shape allows for a nice wedge in which the muzzle can fit in between the sockets, as well as a flat edge across which we can lay the forehead area. Here is another example of the shape we're using. That diagram also shows drawing the whole eyeball as a sphere, then adding the eyelids as pieces of clay that wrap around that ball. Admittedly there isn't always room for all these structures within a head construction, but something that should help you to follow that informal head demo more faithfully is by drawing bigger. If we take this page as an example, there was plenty of room on the page to make one or both of these drawings larger. Giving your constructions as much room as possible on your page will make it easier to think through the spacial reasoning problems presented by these exercises and will also make it easier to engage your whole arm while drawing.

To help you with heads, I have a couple more examples I can share with you: squirrel, camel.

Okay, I can see you put a lot of work into these constructions, and you've made good progress with your mark making, core construction, and constructing chains of sausage forms as the armature for your legs. Where you do use additional masses you're designing them to wrap around your existing structures quite well. I am concerned about how frequently you extend your constructions with single lines (actions in 2D) instead of complete forms (actions in 3D). So, I will be assigning further revisions for you to address this. Look carefully at the diagrams and draw overs I have provided in this feedback, as well as your initial critique. I'd like you to continue to only work on one construction on a given day, and to write the date(s) and approximate time spent on each one.

Please complete 4 pages of animal constructions.

But right now we're running a fun event called a promptathon, you can find out about it here and this is today's prompt. Participation is optional, of course, but it would be great if you do some 50% rule things until 2nd of January when we go back to business as usual.

Thank you for your hard work. If anything that has been said to you here, or previously, is unclear, you are welcome to ask questions.

Next Steps:

Please complete 4 pages of animal constructions.

When finished, reply to this critique with your revisions.
5:05 PM, Wednesday January 4th 2023

Hi,

here are the additional animal constructions.

https://imgur.com/a/0oI2lyk

View more comments in this thread
The recommendation below is an advertisement. Most of the links here are part of Amazon's affiliate program (unless otherwise stated), which helps support this website. It's also more than that - it's a hand-picked recommendation of something I've used myself. If you're interested, here is a full list.
Drawabox-Tested Fineliners (Pack of 10, $17.50 USD)

Drawabox-Tested Fineliners (Pack of 10, $17.50 USD)

Let's be real here for a second: fineliners can get pricey. It varies from brand to brand, store to store, and country to country, but good fineliners like the Staedtler Pigment Liner (my personal brand favourite) can cost an arm and a leg. I remember finding them being sold individually at a Michael's for $4-$5 each. That's highway robbery right there.

Now, we're not a big company ourselves or anything, but we have been in a position to periodically import large batches of pens that we've sourced ourselves - using the wholesale route to keep costs down, and then to split the savings between getting pens to you for cheaper, and setting some aside to one day produce our own.

These pens are each hand-tested (on a little card we include in the package) to avoid sending out any duds (another problem with pens sold in stores). We also checked out a handful of different options before settling on this supplier - mainly looking for pens that were as close to the Staedtler Pigment Liner. If I'm being honest, I think these might even perform a little better, at least for our use case in this course.

We've also tested their longevity. We've found that if we're reasonably gentle with them, we can get through all of Lesson 1, and halfway through the box challenge. We actually had ScyllaStew test them while recording realtime videos of her working through the lesson work, which you can check out here, along with a variety of reviews of other brands.

Now, I will say this - we're only really in a position to make this an attractive offer for those in the continental United States (where we can offer shipping for free). We do ship internationally, but between the shipping prices and shipping times, it's probably not the best offer you can find - though this may depend. We also straight up can't ship to the UK, thanks to some fairly new restrictions they've put into place relating to their Brexit transition. I know that's a bummer - I'm Canadian myself - but hopefully one day we can expand things more meaningfully to the rest of the world.

This website uses cookies. You can read more about what we do with them, read our privacy policy.