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7:20 PM, Friday February 14th 2020

Starting with your arrows, you are starting to make them grow towards the viewer, but only in some of them. Try to make exaggerate it much more, and to do it all your arrows. Corrected here some of them. As you can see, you aren't mostly making the arrows themselves grow, keep in mind you not only have to make the space between folds bigger, but the arrows themselves too. Try to keep 2 things in mind the next times you practice the exercise.

Branches look better, they are actually pretty smooth. Nevertheless, you aren't overlapping your strokes much. You should start the strokes overlapping quite a bit with the previous stroke, as you can see here (different colours are different strokes). Be sure you always draw through your froms. You stopped drawing a branch because it was behind other branch. Never do that. You can clarify which branch is in top of the other later with lineweight, but that's it.

On leaves, remember to approach texture like in the lesson 2 exercises, focus on cast shadows and do it from reference. Remember to work additevely as well, don't cut into the leaves. I also noticed you might be rushing some of the contour lines. Plan and ghost all of them, I know it's hard, but if you feel you are rushing, take a break and come back later, there's nothing wrong with that, go at your own pace.

On this drawing, your contours make that part of the plant a bit flat. Remember that contours should accelerate on the borders. One thing that helps to not make this mistake is to hook the contours. Just like in the lesson 2 organic forms with contours, like I did on the picture I posted.

Otherwise, you've done a good job on texture on the mushroom, though remember in the cactus that we don't want to rely on hatching, try to keep everything to cast shadows. +

Last thing I wanna touch upon is the ellipses. As they face more and more towards the viewer, the degree will be bigger, and this is something you might not be aware. As you can see here, the pot bottom ellipse faces more towards the viewer, so it needs to have a higher degree ellipse.

Next Steps:

Alright, so like I said you did a pretty good job, so I'm marking this lesson as complete, keep in mind those things in mind and into the next lesson! (Which should be lesson 4, but I'm not sure if you have completed it yet). Keep up the good work!

This community member feels the lesson should be marked as complete, and 3 others agree. The student has earned their completion badge for this lesson and should feel confident in moving onto the next lesson.
7:50 PM, Friday February 14th 2020

Thank you for the feedback. Going to spend some time tonight and take a quick crack at some of the stuff above and will resubmit. Want to make sure this sinks in.

Good call on the rushing. I feel like when I am not thinking through my textures, I experiment till I find what looks good. Often times that gets a little messy and is rushed. This then compounds and start making mistakes in other areas as well (i.e. flat pitcher plant). Will try and be more cognizant of this.

Again, wonderful feedback this is the stuff I have been looking for to really help me move forward. Thanks!

Alan

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Sakura Pigma Microns

A lot of my students use these. The last time I used them was when I was in high school, and at the time I felt that they dried out pretty quickly, though I may have simply been mishandling them. As with all pens, make sure you're capping them when they're not in use, and try not to apply too much pressure. You really only need to be touching the page, not mashing your pen into it.

In terms of line weight, the sizes are pretty weird. 08 corresponds to 0.5mm, which is what I recommend for the drawabox lessons, whereas 05 corresponds to 0.45mm, which is pretty close and can also be used.

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