I apologize for not writing my observations in the texture analysis in English. For completeness, here are the same comments translated in English: https://pastebin.com/Kh89CgH6. Thank you in advance to anyone who has some time to spare for a critique.
Hey, Doc! Perhaps you recognize me, but anyhow, I'm Keisari and I'll be the one responsible for critiquing your Lesson 2 submission today. Before we proceed, congratulations on going through Lesson 2!
Thinking in 3D
Your Organic Arrows look good. You're drawing confidently, making correct use of line weight and hatching, and making good use of space. Some of them are sloppy, but that'll improve with practice. One thing I'd like to suggest, though, is that you push their foreshortening further and be more adventurous exploring 3D space -- try and make them approach or get distanced from the viewer at more extreme rates; let arrow segments overlap other segments of the same arrow; vary the spacing between and size of each fold more... Experiment and exaggerate. That will further your understanding of 3D space.
Your Organic Forms also look great and I don't have much to say about them, although it seems you should work on the confidence of your ellipses.
Texture and Detail
Overall, your textures are fantastic and I struggled to find anything to critique. Something I noticed in your Texture Analysis exercise is that the black bars are pretty clearly visible, so you should try and push the shadows more in order to achieve a more seamless transition. On your Dissections, I noticed you seem to do form shading on a couple textures, such as this one and this one. As tempting as it might be, you should not fill in anything but cast shadows, be it form shading, color variation or anything else, even if it's difficult to convey a texture that way. Generally, if you can't properly convey a texture with only cast shadows, you should probably stay away from it in Drawabox's approach.
Construction
For your Form Intersections exercise, you did well abiding to the main goal of doing consistent and shallow foreshortening, albeit there are some cases where you did more extreme foreshortening, mainly in your box-only page, but I presume that to be unintentional. Your forms are very well constructed, you're applying hatching correctly and although it's secondary, you also did great on your intersections. Even then, if you wish to understand them further, I'd recommend checking out the Forms Intersection First Aid Pack and this website, if you haven't already.
Your Organic Intersections also look pretty good -- they're simple, drawn through, confident and you did very well regarding their contour lines and making them stable, capturing their water baloon properties, although I suggest you push their physics a bit further in that regard -- for example, this sausage should sag into the crevices inbetween the sausages below it, although I understand it can be difficult to get that right markmaking-wise.
Next Steps:
Move on to Lesson 3!
Thank you for taking some of your time to critique my submission, I really appreciate! I admit that in the dissections exercise I fell back on some textures that are hard to convey with cast shadows only because I was running out of ideas for textures. I will try to avoid it in the future for things like the texture challenge (and also try to avoid making the black bar too thick as you observed). I also agree with you on your point on the sagging, I was indeed a bit afraid of making an overtly complicated shape but it does indeed look a bit too much rigid, I will try to better capture the weight effects in the future. I want to thank you once again, and I'm excited to move on to lesson 3!
This recommendation is really just for those of you who've reached lesson 6 and onwards.
I haven't found the actual brand you buy to matter much, so you may want to shop around. This one is a "master" template, which will give you a broad range of ellipse degrees and sizes (this one ranges between 0.25 inches and 1.5 inches), and is a good place to start. You may end up finding that this range limits the kinds of ellipses you draw, forcing you to work within those bounds, but it may still be worth it as full sets of ellipse guides can run you quite a bit more, simply due to the sizes and degrees that need to be covered.
No matter which brand of ellipse guide you decide to pick up, make sure they have little markings for the minor axes.
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