thanks uncomfortable. sorry for the question, i tried to ask the discord but i didnt get any answers and im not sure if i wanted to wait and see if someone would reply to me so hopefully its okay to ask here but how exactly do you subdivide it into 16 boxes? i can do it once or twice but after that i dont know where to put my next lines.
This is demonstrated in the video, but also in the notes from lesson 6. Basically once you subdivide a plane into 4 quadrants, each of those quadrants is itself a plane of its own. You just repeat the same process, drawing diagonals across each quadrant to find its center.
i tried to draw two as a sample, and also i had a small inquiry on my second one, when the subdivision lines dont exactly match up do we push foward with the mistakes (even if they are extremely off?) or if its off by a lot we can fix them? i know we arnt suppose to correct our mistakes but if its super off, wouldnt it ruin the drawing exercise if you cant do it correctly?
ive been trying to "compensate" for my mistakes but im not sure whether if im doing it right by correcting my mistakes if that makes sense. i think im confused between compensating mistakes vs which mistakes i need to push through
In the video for the subdivided boxes, I talk about a problem students will certainly run into - the little inaccuracies that will accumulate as you continue to make estimations which will inevitably be off by a little bit. As explained in the video, you ultimately do have to keep rolling with the punches - adjusting trajectories to get them to line up, to compensate for one another, even though those trajectories aren't perfect.
So, according to what's mentioned in that video, your first box is incorrect, whereas the second box (despite not being perfect) is very well done, and follows the intended approach.
With practice, your spatial reasoning skills will improve to shrink those margins of error. That isn't to say there won't be mistakes, but that they'll be minimal enough to be inconsequential, and at the same time you'll get better at compensating for them to avoid any noticeable issues in the resulting drawings. That said, the drawings you do in this course are all exercises - so there's no such thing as a "ruined drawing". Whether or not it comes out looking good is irrelevant - what matters is what you learned from the process, and one of the many things we learn is to adhere to the marks we've put down in previous phases of construction. Yeah, as you noticed in your first swing at this lesson, you ended up with a lot of wonky boxes - but it is from that point your responsibility to behave as though that box is what you intended, and to work within it, rather than undermining and contradicting it in the pursuit of a pretty drawing.
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Where the rest of my recommendations tend to be for specific products, this one is a little more general. It's about printer paper.
As discussed in Lesson 0, printer paper (A4 or 8.5"x11") is what we recommend. It's well suited to the kind of tools we're using, and the nature of the work we're doing (in terms of size). But a lot of students still feel driven to sketchbooks, either by a desire to feel more like an artist, or to be able to compile their work as they go through the course.
Neither is a good enough reason to use something that is going to more expensive, more complex in terms of finding the right kind for the tools we're using, more stress-inducing (in terms of not wanting to "ruin" a sketchbook - we make a lot of mistakes throughout the work in this course), and more likely to keep you from developing the habits we try to instill in our students (like rotating the page to find a comfortable angle of approach).
Whether you grab the ream of printer paper linked here, a different brand, or pick one up from a store near you - do yourself a favour and don't make things even more difficult for you. And if you want to compile your work, you can always keep it in a folder, and even have it bound into a book when you're done.
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