Lesson 3: Applying Construction to Plants

3:00 PM, Friday June 18th 2021

Malk L3 Homework - Album on Imgur

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Worth noting is that I've spent at least a decade wanting to draw, but always saved the 'actual construction/using reference images' part for a nebulous later date, under the assumption that I'd need to develop enough technical knowlege before I can do such a thing without having a mental breakdown.

This thinking is naturally flawed (you can only learn something by being told how to do it properly, of course) and this is entirely my own issue that must be solved outside of this course, but I feel it's important to note for why these exercises display such a profound lack of confidence in linework, as well as such shoddy non-attempts at making things flow in 3D: these exercises are simply my first attempt at ever doing such a thing. Both inexperience and irrational terror were at the forefront of my mind during these.

Naturally, I have no issue with being asked to redo the entire lesson. It's the only way I'll learn, and my current efforts are comparable to a toddler attempting to walk, barely grasping anything.

As always, thank you for your time.

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12:03 AM, Saturday June 19th 2021

I think the first thing that's in order here, is simply to relax. Mistakes are a common, normal thing, and while I understand that you felt it necessary to explain why they were occurring, it's all fine. All that matters is that you put forward your best attempt, based on your current ability, and I can see that you have done that.

I can also see that there are clear ways in which your approach can be altered to yield better results out of the capacity you have now - that the way in which your brainpower is doled out is inherently inhibiting your abilities, causing your line quality to suffer because you're very focused on figuring out something else entirely. We will address this, and you will get better.

So. Starting with your arrows, what's most important here is that you're executing those marks with a great deal of confidence, so they're flowing very fluidly through space. Now, there are some things that can be improved - for example, you can exaggerate the rate at which the gaps between the zigzagging sections compress as we look farther away, as shown here, to better demonstrate the depth in the scene. Still, the main point I'm looking for here is being well done.

That sense of confidence and fluidity carries over nicely into your leaves, where you've captured not only how they occupy space, but also how they move through the space they occupy. The essence of how you're approaching adding the more complex edge detail is also correct - you're building upon the simple leaf silhouette with individual marks, defining each bump coming off the previous edge and returning to it - but this can certainly be improved.

Most notably, the issue is that as seen here, your lines don't create a seamless addition to the existing edge - we can see where the tail lifts off, and where you accidentally pass inside the silhouette, then cross it to create the bump outside the silhouette, then dip back into the silhouette. As shown here (mind you you're not making that mistake, but I want you to take a look at the way in which each bump is drawn in the diagram), it's important that we ensure that each stroke flows right off the existing edge, and returns to it. No zigzagging, no overshooting, and no visible tails.

To achieve this, it merely takes the investment of time (specifically in the planning and preparation phases of the ghosting method), and more specifically to understand what kind of mark you're looking to make. It's tempting, when you have a ton of these bumps to add to your drawing, to rush through them - after all, who's going to care about a mark that is really just 5% of a drawing? But that's not the way to be thinking about this. Regardless of whether it makes up a tiny fraction of your drawing, or if it is one of three lines that need to be executed just so, it needs to be given all the time it requires to be drawn at your best.

The ghosting method is the key to this, because it forces you to regard every individual mark and its individual purpose, one at a time. I actually talk about this notion in the ghosted planes exercise's purpose section, about how students will feel tempted to put less effort into a single line if it is one of many. If you're forced to go through that three step process for every single mark, then the perceived complexity of the overall drawing doesn't matter - because your only job at that moment is to focus on one mark. To assess where it needs to go, what it needs to do, and what you need from it.

Remember - you are not expected nor required to complete a single page, or a single drawing, in any set amount of time. You take as much time as you need, and you can split any drawing or exercise across multiple sittings or days, as needed.

Looking through your work, that is going to be the main takeaway for this critique. As you tackle these complex, real-world objects, it's completely natural to respond with an amount of panic. It's overwhelming, asking you to work through so many things, and the human brain's response is generally going to be to just dive in and draw, and to get it over with. When you feel overwhelmed, instead make the decision to step back and take stock of the situation. Don't let your brain think six steps ahead - think about the next mark you need to draw, and what it demands of you. Focus on that, and only that. Nothing else.

Moving onto the branches, you've followed the instructions well. There are two things I want you to try to focus on when doing this exercise in the future, aside from simply taking more time with the use of the ghosting method for each mark:

  • Right now, you're drawing the next segment where the previous one ought to have been, regardless of whether the first one went off track at all. I find that while it makes things a little more challenging, it can help you develop more quickly if you use the tail of the previous segment as a runway, overlapping it directly with your next mark. This will force you to take any previous mistakes into account and to deal with them directly, and will help you learn more quickly than leaving those strokes sticking out individually.

  • Remember that the degree of each ellipse represents the orientation of that cross-section in space. As such, the degree of your ellipses will widen as we slide away from the viewer. If you're unsure why this is, you'll find an explanation in the newest version of the lesson 1 ellipses video.

Continuing onto your plant constructions, I think that while you are following the steps correctly for the most part, it is that reaction to being overwhelmed - the panicking where you just jump in and draw instead of taking a step back to assess the situation - that is holding you back. For example, if we look at the sunflower, you're very clearly drawing back over your lines multiple times on the leaves, and the petals on the head of the flower are decidedly more rushed than the simple leaf silhouettes you drew in your leaves exercise. It all comes back to the "feeling" that if something is a small piece of a drawing, it should be completed quickly.

Speed is not a factor in this course, and as we move further into it, you will find that the drawings will demand more and more of you. At their core, they're just lines, and you do have it in you to execute them well - but you need to calm your mind and simply accept that whatever expectations you have regarding how long a drawing should take, are not based on any reliable source.

Instead, focus only on applying the principles introduced in the course so far. So for example, back in Lesson 1 we talked about the importance of executing one mark at a time, only as the result of planning and forethought. So the sketchy, erratic execution of the leaves/petal structure around the opening of this pitcher plant is definitely a mistake. Not a mistake as the result of a lack of skill - but a decision that was made. We can also see that along the length of its tube-structure, you've applied the branch technique incorrectly in two ways: the ellipses are misaligned to the minor axis, and many of the edge segments are not extending fully halfway to the next ellipse as explained here - something you did more correctly during the exercise itself.

Also, looking at the edge detail you added to this hibiscus, it seems you did start falling into the mistake of zigzagging your details.

The last thing I wanted to talk about is how you approach your cast shadow shapes. In this rose, I think you did an especially great job - the cast shadow shapes themselves are specific, intentional, and designed. Their edges are clean rather than erratic or messy, and I think that is because you did one thing that you didn't put as much time/effort into in the cactus and daisy: you clearly outlined the shapes ahead of time, then patiently filled them in. That is key to a clean shadow, and as with everything else, it just takes time.

So! You're not going to be asked to redo the lesson, but I am going to ask for some revisions. I'll list them below. For all of this, I want you to focus on one thing: take your time.

Next Steps:

Please submit the following:

  • 1 page, half of leaves, half of branches

  • 3 pages of plant constructions

When finished, reply to this critique with your revisions.
10:36 PM, Tuesday July 6th 2021

https://imgur.com/a/VvbbFzY

For clarity, I've included images of both the Morel Mushroom and the Sunflower in both their pre and post detail stages.

I wished to do the same with the Potato Plant, but despite leaving it out for four days, I still couldn't imagine how to add detail to it properly. Seen with the fact only about three leaves have really sloppy and awful contour lines. It didn't help that my leaves where so shapeless and haphazard (despite my best efforts) that I couldn't even tell where they were supposed to sit in 3d space.

I won't be upset if I'm asked to redo an exercise a second time. The only important thing is that I learn.

10:20 PM, Thursday July 8th 2021
edited at 10:39 PM, Jul 8th 2021

Starting with your leaves, these are coming along okay, but the main thing I want you to keep an eye on is the fact that you're drawing your later marks purposely darker than those that precede them. I'm guessing that you're pressing harder, or possibly drawing more slowly. Try to keep the thickness of your lines roughly consistent as you move through the phases of construction.

For your branches, you've got varying degrees of success. There are definitely areas where your linework is sloppier, and others where it's less so. This begs certain questions - how exactly is your approach differing from mark to mark? Are you rotating your page? I can see that you're putting down marks to plan out your strokes, which is definitely good and shows that you're definitely putting effort in here, but there is something that is holding your markmaking back.

If at all possible, it would help a lot to see a recording of how you actually draw your lines - that is, a recording with a phone camera or something to watch your process, and how your arm moves as you do it. It would help to identify any potential issues that go beyond just needing more practice/mileage.

Now, I did also notice some places where the planning of your marks was also kind of sloppy - like here where your strokes didn't overlap much. This suggests to me that you may have rushed here more than you did in other areas.

Continuing onto your morel mushroom, I'm actually unsure here as to whether you were following along with the demonstration that was available at the bottom of the mushroom demo (I had done an informal one for the morel mushroom here), but I'm assuming you were doing it on your own. If you were following along with it, then I think the key issue there would just be to invest more time in observing. The individual choices we make - every mark, every ellipse, etc. is important. If you weren't following along with the demo, then... well, take a look at the demo.

Edit: Shoot - it looks like I thanks to a bug, the rest of the critique I wrote didn't take, so I'll have to write it again.

So the other issue is that the areas you're filling with solid black are largely guesswork. As discussed back in Lesson 2, the focus is very much on cast shadows as being a tool for implying the presence of forms. That goes for all cast shadow shapes you draw.

It's not enough to just draw them arbitrarily, or from observation - when we observe our references, we may see cast shadows, but that's just the first step. It is from those cast shadow shapes that the reference tells us about what forms are present in the construction.

We draw our cast shadow shapes by leveraging what we understand about the forms themselves. It's not something we're really doing from observation, except that observation tells us what those individual forms are like. Based on our understanding of them, we then create new cast shadows.

In our drawings here, there are no filled black shapes that aren't cast shadows - but that also means that every shadow defines the relationship between the form casting it, and the surface upon which they're cast. If you don't know the specific nature of the form casting the shadow, then there's no way that shadow is actually going to come out correctly.

If you look at the shadows along the stock of the mushroom, those don't actually imply any clear forms - they're just arbitrary, probably drawn directly from observation but without actually thinking about the nature of the forms that cast it.

Also, resist the temptation of just filling in shapes that already exist - like the holes in your morel mushroom. Again - every cast shadow needs to specifically have a shape that'll relate to those forms. There's actually one example, in the potato plant demo, where we fill in some of the negative space between the leaves in a certain area - the only reason we were able to do that is because the foliage was so thick that all the dirt underneath was going to be covered in shadow. The other shadows cast by the other leaves (where we get actual, distinct shadows) however are necessary for that to make sense, because they help us understand where the light is coming from.

Just to drive the point home, I noticed that in your sunflower, you specifically filled the shapes that occurred where your petals overlapped. I'm not really sure what you were going for with that choice, but it does make it clear that you weren't really sure how to use those areas of filled black. All these shapes will always be cast shadows, and nothing else. In this course we don't capture any form shading (as discussed here), we don't capture any local colour (like where parts of the object have a black or darker coloured surface). When the viewer looks at the drawing, because of the limitations of our tools, working strictly with black and white, they will try to interpret such shapes as being cast shadows, and will only move on from that when it is clear that they don't make sense as such. At that point, however, you've already lost the battle.

Now, I'm getting pretty scattered in this critique, primarily because the nature of the issues here pertain more to underlying issues with your understanding of the material. I can pick at individual issues with the drawings, but that won't really get us far. So I am glad that you understand that a full redo of the lesson is definitely in your best interest, as that is the path we will be taking. When you're done, you'll need to submit it as a fresh submission, which will cost you two credits.

I do have a few recommendations however:

  • When you do the lesson over, don't worry about detail or texture at all. I rambled a lot about cast shadows, but the understanding of how they work is actually more based on your understanding of how these forms exist in 3D space, and that is actually what the construction tackles best. So let's focus more on construction for now, and avoid distracting ourselves with additional challenges.

  • I strongly recommend that you reread the lesson notes and video material for Lesson 1's lines and ellipses sections. I redid them a few months ago to make them clearer and more concise. Be sure to go over the ghosted lines notes too, to refresh yourself on the principles behind the ghosting method.

  • Be sure to keep up with those earlier exercises as part of a regular warmup routine, as discussed here.

If you are able to make a recording of you just drawing individual lines, using the ghosting method, etc. then you can feel free to post it as a reply to this critique. Identifying any issues with that approach now will definitely help.

edited at 10:39 PM, Jul 8th 2021
10:52 PM, Tuesday July 20th 2021
edited at 2:02 AM, Jul 21st 2021

https://youtu.be/Gk7Z09piRi0

Apologies about the mess that is the formating (as well as how loud my creaking chair is), but hopefully this is a good enough sample for you to give me some pointers. I feel like the first minute or so was me fumbling with 'oh god this is being recorded' and everything after that was me getting into my usual groove.

edited at 2:02 AM, Jul 21st 2021
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