View Full Submission View Parent Comment
11:58 PM, Thursday May 13th 2021
  1. For this one you should lean more towards tapering so that you can blend it back more seamlessly into your original line work. The main point about applying that extra line weight to the silhouette is that you do not want to apply it to the inner corners of your box. If your extra line weight ends up frying, just leave it and move on. Your accuracy will improve with practice.

  2. I probably forgot to ghost. It happens to everyone and it wouldn't be the first time I've been called out for forgetting to follow the steps myself. I think the thing to take away here is that everyone, even TAs will make mistakes from time to time. To the second part of your question, given time and practice you may find that you are capable of making the desired mark without all of the steps of the ghosting method. That is for many people the goal. You are welcome to experiment as part of the 50% rule to discover for yourself which steps you may or may not always need. But when you are doing the lesson homework be sure that you abide by the written material above all else. Even TAs make mistakes and it's perfectly acceptable for you to point those out and ask questions.

  3. For the purposes of this exercise your vanishing points are arbitrary. You can reference this section which talks more about distortion and placing vanishing points. But again, for this lesson your vanishing points are arbitrary.

4:40 PM, Wednesday July 7th 2021
edited at 4:41 PM, Jul 7th 2021

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3rw3crn4hz5075t/15%20Box%20Revision.pdf?dl=0

"15 Box Revision"

Hi, good ScyllaStew,

I reviewed all your material, practiced, and tried to increase the size of the boxes, push the convergences, make the silhouette weight lines taper more, and ghosted every single line including shade hatching.

Thank you very much for your attention and wisdom.

Daniel

edited at 4:41 PM, Jul 7th 2021
2:54 PM, Thursday July 8th 2021

This is a good improvement overall. I can see some good improvement in the quality of your mark making. Your sets of lines are also doing a better job of converging towards their shared vanishing point.

I will go ahead and mark this lesson as complete and you can now move onto lesson two.

Next Steps:

Continue to listen 2!

This critique marks this lesson as complete.
The recommendation below is an advertisement. Most of the links here are part of Amazon's affiliate program (unless otherwise stated), which helps support this website. It's also more than that - it's a hand-picked recommendation of something we've used ourselves, or know to be of impeccable quality. If you're interested, here is a full list.
Sakura Pigma Microns

Sakura Pigma Microns

A lot of my students use these. The last time I used them was when I was in high school, and at the time I felt that they dried out pretty quickly, though I may have simply been mishandling them. As with all pens, make sure you're capping them when they're not in use, and try not to apply too much pressure. You really only need to be touching the page, not mashing your pen into it.

On the flipside, they tend to be on the cheaper side of things, so if you're just getting started (beginners tend to have poor pressure control), you're probably going to destroy a few pens - going cheaper in that case is not a bad idea.

In terms of line weight, the sizes are pretty weird. 08 corresponds to 0.5mm, which is what I recommend for the drawabox lessons, whereas 05 corresponds to 0.45mm, which is pretty close and can also be used.

This website uses cookies. You can read more about what we do with them, read our privacy policy.