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3:14 AM, Tuesday March 30th 2021

Starting with your arrows, these are drawn fairly well - a touch hesitant here and there, and the hatching lines should be drawn across from edge to edge rather than floating in the middle, but all in all you're still capturing a decent sense of fluidity in how they move through space. Just be sure to push the confidence of the strokes a little more.

I think you do a better job with the confidence in your leaves exercise, although there are a few issues in how you approach tackling the complexity of both the edges and the overall leaf structures. In this crop for example, you can see a case where you've zigzagged your more complex edge detail back and forth over the previous phase of construction. As explained here, this should be avoided - the edge detail should be added with individual bumps, each coming off the previous phase's simpler edge, and returning to it seamlessly. I can see that you're breaking it into separate sections, but each section needs to adhere to that previous phase, building off it directly instead of treating it more like a loose suggestion.

Similarly, here we can see how you start out with a simple overall shape for this whole branch of leaves. The important thing to understand about the constructional method is that every phase answers a question, or asserts some aspect of what the end result will be. With that initial overall boundary, you're setting out the extent to which those leaves will stretch. From there, the flow line of each subsequent leaf represents how that leaf moves through space, and how far it will extend. You drew them correctly, having them stop at the boundary of the larger shape, but then when drawing the leaves, you were much more loose in following what the flow lines had asserted. Note how in this section the example of handling more complex structures is handled, treating every phase of construction as asserting something. Every subsequent step follows that assertion to the letter.

That section also explains why in the maple leaf drawing, you appear to have completely sidestepped the constructional process altogether.

The last point I wanted to make was that when drawing the details on your leaves, you appear to be working with individual lines, and are relying more on memory than direct observation of reference, resulting in textures that appear more oversimplified. Along with being sure to observe your references directly and frequently, only looking away for long enough to put down a specific mark, be sure to work strictly in shadow shapes when drawing texture, rather than individual lines. You can adhere to this most easily by making a habit of following this two step process whenever making any textural marks, first outlining the intended shadow shape, then filling it in.

Moving onto your branches, one thing that caught my eye was the fact that you don't appear to be extending your segments fully halfway to the next ellipse, resulting in a minimal overlap between them. As explained here in the instructions, the overlap helps allow the segments to transition from one to the next more smoothly and seamlessly. Aside from that misstep, your branches are looking fairly solid and well constructed, and I'm glad to see that you're maintaining a consistent width through their lengths - it helps make the structure feel more solid.

Continuing onto your plant constructions, aside from the issues I have addressed, overall your work is coming along fairly well. I do believe there are further places where more careful observation of your references could help - some of the leaves, like those in this drawing feel a little more simplified in their overall structure, and the focus on lines instead of shadow shapes when adding texture definitely has a negative impact. I strongly recommend you review the texture section from lesson 2.

A couple points about flower pots, and cylinders in general:

  • Be sure to construct them around a central minor axis line, in order to help keep the ellipses used in their construction aligned to one another. While I've touched upon their importance in a number of places throughout the lessons, I most recently updated the ellipse content for Lesson 1 with a new video, which explains the minor axis' value as well. I'm working through updating all of the videos, although it's somewhat slow going, and I'm only about halfway through Lesson 1.

  • Don't leave the cylindrical forms, like those on this page, open ended. When you leave the bottoms open as you did, you leave the viewer to interpret them as a series of lines or shapes on a page, rather than solid 3D forms. Closing them off with another ellipse helps reinforce the idea that we're dealing with three dimensional forms.

Lastly, in this page, you don't appear to be drawing through your ellipses, resulting in the ellipses being a little less evenly shaped, and a little more stiff. In general, just be sure to execute your marks with a bit more confidence, and make a point of doing so from the shoulder.

I feel there's enough pointed out here - specifically in regards to the leaves - that I'd like a few pages of revision before I mark this lesson as complete. You'll find them listed below.

Next Steps:

Please submit the following:

  • 1 page of leaves

  • 2 pages of plant constructions

When finished, reply to this critique with your revisions.
10:25 PM, Sunday April 4th 2021

Thank you very much for your detailed and helpful feedback. I wont lie I still struggled with the cylinder aspect of the assignment, but tried to not shy away from at least attempting them (even if not totally successful). Textures continue to be a struggle, but after reviewing the previous textures lesson, I hope these additional pages are at least a little better

I placed the revivions at the original link, which can be found here for your convenience

https://imgur.com/a/jnJ1sWR

Any feedback is always appreciated.

Thank you for your time.

10:00 PM, Monday April 5th 2021

I'm working under the assumption that the last three images are your revisions - in the future, it is best to submit them in a separate gallery, so it's easier to distinguish them from the previous work.

Starting with your leaves, the construction and addition of edge detail is improved. I do however want to stress the importance of remembering that the edge detail phase is not intended as an opportunity to outright replace the simpler edge from the previous phase of construction - we're just building on top of it - so wherever possible, try to retain some of the previous edge, focusing on adding each protruding piece as something built upon it, rising off that earlier edge and returning from it.

When you get too caught up in the idea of replacing an existing edge, you'll be more likely to fall into the trap of zigzagging edge detail, as you did with the holly leaf.

Your venus fly trap is coming along nicely, although your ellipses need work. Always construct cylindrical forms around a central minor axis line, draw each ellipse in its entirety (so for the bottom of the rim, you'd still want a full ellipse going all the way around, to fully understand how that rim structure exists in 3D space), and make sure you're drawing your ellipses from your shoulder, using the ghosting method. That base ellipse looks pretty janky, which suggests that it was drawn more from the wrist.

Your cactus is coming along well - the ellipses are better but still have plenty of room for improvement, I'm glad to see that you're using a minor axis line (though make it longer, going through all of your intended ellipses instead of stopping at their midpoints). Lastly, you should also include a contour line (whether a curve or a full ellipse) to define where the bottom chunk of the cactus intersects with the soil. Defining where 3D forms connect to one another helps a great deal in making them feel three dimensional.

I'll go ahead and mark this lesson as complete, but be sure to keep these points in mind. You'll be using plenty of ellipses in Lesson 4, so it's important to ensure that you're using the ghosting method and your whole arm to execute them. If you haven't already, I recommend you look at the recently updated ellipses video from Lesson 1.

Next Steps:

Move onto lesson 4.

This critique marks this lesson as complete.
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Faber Castell PITT Artist Pens

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Like the Staedtlers, these also come in a set of multiple weights - the ones we use are F. One useful thing in these sets however (if you can't find the pens individually) is that some of the sets come with a brush pen (the B size). These can be helpful in filling out big black areas.

Still, I'd recommend buying these in person if you can, at a proper art supply store. They'll generally let you buy them individually, and also test them out beforehand to weed out any duds.

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