## Lesson 6: Applying Construction to Everyday Objects

##### 1:03 PM, Saturday May 21st 2022

Done with lesson 6. I honestly struggled with this one quite a lot, especially for curvy objects like the hair dryer. Thanks in advance for critique.

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##### 6:14 PM, Saturday June 11th 2022 edited at 6:45 PM, Jun 11th 2022

Hello I’ll be handling the critique for your lesson 6 homework

Form Intersections

-Starting with your form intersections you are doing a good job, the only things I want to call out is that you could have filled your first page with more forms, and second I wanted to offer a correction for this intersection which is the one that stood out the most to me when checking your work. All of the other ones are moving in the right direction.

-It is also worth pointing out that your lineweight seems to be pretty far out on some forms but your spheres tend to look quite faint in comparison, remember to only apply lineweight to clarify how forms overlap, do not add lineweight to the silhouette of a whole form.

Objects

-Moving on to your objects you have done quite well, although I do have one thing to call out but first let’s explain what you have done well.

-The main focus of this lesson is precision, something that we really did not worry about in the previous lessons where we broke down our subjects into their more simple components, we drew them one step at a time always respecting what we had drawn previous to that step regardless of how it had turned out. For example we might have drawn the head of an animal too big, but that was not an issue as those mistakes didn’t take away from the things we learned by doing the lesson all the way to the end.

Precision and accuracy are two different things and in the context of this course accuracy refers to how close you were to executing the mark you intended to, but precision has nothing to do with drawing that mark, instead it is about the steps and decisions that we take beforehand to declare our intentions.

A good example of this would be the ghosting method, when going through the planning of a straight line we can place an initial and ending dot, this will increase the precision of our drawing by declaring what we want to do. Once that is in place we can draw the mark, it may nail those points, it may overshoot or undershoot, etc. The important thing is that prior to any of that we have used the ghosting method to think about each mark's purpose and how we are going to achieve it best rather than figuring everything as we go, this kind of approach is more useful for the kind of geometric forms that we are working with as they have different planes, sharp corners, and clearly defined proportions.

We can capture all of these elements through the use of subdivisions, these allow us to meaningfully study the proportions of our object by way of an orthographic study, after that is done we can apply those studies to the object in 3 dimensions. That way everything that we do is the result of careful planning, and nothing is done by eyeballing or improvising.

-This last point is what I wanted to call out, it seems that you have done your orthographic studies and applied them but you tend to ignore completely the minor details, for example taking a look at the controller you have placed those buttons by eyeballing and guesswork, instead you could have used an orthographic study to place those buttons on a more concrete place. Another good example is the pencil sharpener, one would think that the hole sits at the center of the plane but it seems that it is a bit off. Instead you can create an inset square as explained in the bluetooth speaker demo here in this same exact minute and then try to draw an ellipse that fits into that square.

-It is also important to call out that if you are freehanding your ellipses you should draw them from your shoulders and also draw through them twice or three times at max, right now it seems that you are drawing them from your wrist.

-I can also see that you are jumping right into curved lines quite early, a good example would be the hair dryer where you drew the curves before fleshing out the basic shapes, you can draw sections on some places of the initial box and using those to draw ellipses as help for drawing the initial form. Instead of freehanding the whole form directly from the initial box.

Curving lines, as explained here have an element of vagueness to them which can make them tricky when establishing a solid, believable structure. Your drawing came out fine, for what it's worth, but in terms of applying the principles of the lesson you definitely did skip over the important steps of fleshing out the structure using straight edges and more planar elements, and jumped right into smoothing everything out. This issue can also be seen in the key, where you jumped quite early into drawing the little cuts on the edges, the trick really comes down to pushing your orthographic studies to locate every single detail both big and small, and making a lot of simpler moves and decisions rather than trying to capture a lot of things at once.

Fortunately you still did a great job as far as this lesson is concerned. When you do hit Lesson 7, you will find that the challenges you face will be similar to what you've encountered here, but they will be vastly more demanding. You will benefit from continuing to follow the trend of patience and fastidiousness, taking each step in turn, and giving each construction as much time as it requires.

Anyway, I'll go ahead and mark this lesson as complete. Keep up the good work.

Next Steps:

25 Wheel Challenge

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edited at 6:45 PM, Jun 11th 2022
##### 11:02 PM, Tuesday June 14th 2022

Hi! Thank you so much for your critique. Yeah, I definitely felt like I skipped some steps on this lesson. I'll be more careful and intentional.

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### Staedtler Pigment Liners

These are what I use when doing these exercises. They usually run somewhere in the middle of the price/quality range, and are often sold in sets of different line weights - remember that for the Drawabox lessons, we only really use the 0.5s, so try and find sets that sell only one size.

Alternatively, if at all possible, going to an art supply store and buying the pens in person is often better because they'll generally sell them individually and allow you to test them out before you buy (to weed out any duds).