Hi,
In Drawabox, Uncomfortable requires at least two week between submitting official homeworks. That suggests that the faster he officially accepts is around 18 boxes per day. I guess it also means that he discourages going faster, but going slower is okay. Just don't forget to start with warm ups before going at it each day.
Keep working hard!
Hi,
Good job on completing the challenge!
Perspective : Honestly your start was good (in term of perspective, and going towards the same vanishing points), and around box 40-50 you jumped on another level. From then on you simply made the good boxes more and more consistent
Lines : I can see your weight lines curving from the beginning to the end, like you were adding the line and realized you were of track and curved it to hit the mark. Instead, the make sexy weight lines, I encourage you to also use the ghosting method. Every mark you put on the paper should be ghosted. Also, you did great putting hatching lines because at first you had trouble making them strait and parallel, but as the time went on you were more precise on the direction. The next step would be to make them start and finish on the edges of the face you put them into (but the direction and the smoothness of the line is the priority, never sacrifice that). Don't forget to ghost them!!!!! (I see this as a recurrent weakness from your previous lesson).
Points : I see you put a lot of points on the paper. As long as it's not vanishing points, it's completely all right. But as you continue forward, it might be an interesting idea to let your mind do more of the heavy lifting and visualize the points and lines instead of marking them. It's not easy, but that's the point! That way you train yourself at visualizing the forms and visualization is a useful skill for visual arts.
Continue making boxes in your warm ups as you continue!
Next Steps:
You can pass on to the lesson 2!
Hi,
I see your intersection on the top is changing directions 3 times, but it should be a strait line. The intersections change direction only when they touch an edge.
To start an intersection, you can choose a place where an edge of cube A enters a face of cube B. Then, you can trace a line parallel to the face of cube B until it touches an edge. Then you find the face you want to continue your intersections on and continue your line parallel to that face.
Here, take a look at my form intersections and isolate to cubes to study them. They are by no way perfect but Uncomfortable said I had a good start : https://imgur.com/a/iG0n4Us
Have fun!
Personally it depends of the stem. Sometimes it's just too thin for the cylinders, so I draw the sides. Same for the anthers and filaments of flowers. I guess if the leaf stem is thick enough you can try going for the cylinders.
Hi,
I am talking about the third box of this exercise : https://drawabox.com/lesson/2/textureanalysis
Position your texture depending on where you want your light source to be. I said put the light more near the center because it's easier at first to draw as if the light was coming from you. Then you could move to giving a different orientation to the light, after being comfortable with putting in texture. Well you can skip this step if you don't think it's helpful.
You might want to watch this video. It really helped me understand the concept of texture : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ri01PNdEBxQ&feature=youtu.be
At 7:22, on the right, you have a perfect example.
Have fun!
It does, and that's ok. That's what Uncomfortable recommends anyways. It is better having some tapering in your line work than having a curvy, wobbly, end to your line.
You ghost only in one way. So you ghost (faster) from point A to point B, then slowly come back to the starting point. You can do that as many time as it takes. Once you're ready, you can also slowly put your pen down, then cut the paper like a samurai. The priority is having a sexy line. Hitting the mark comes after. Stopping at the mark is the third priority (try not to stop but to lift the pen instead).
Hi
You ghosted planes are really wobbly. Try going faster and with the shoulder (elbow shouldn't touch the table, and the wrist should slide on the paper). Never forget to use the ghosting method and only ghost in one direction. Continue doing your superimposed lines as warm ups so you develop better precision. The longest lines seem to be better, so that's is why I suspect your wrist and elbow to be culprits.
Good luck!
What people see on the first page are the most recent posts. Yours might have disappeared behind all the new ones. Honestly, I think paying for the official critiques is really worth it, because they really make a complete usefull feedback. You can search the submitted homeworks and filter to see homeworks that have been corrected by official critique. You can learn from them and judge if you pass. You can also see what you should improve on.
I see you can work on digital. It's a good observation tool because you can trace over the image, before doing your attempt on the page. After you can compare the trace overs with your attempt. That solidifies your observation skills. I see in your picture that you could learn from this method.
These are what I use when doing these exercises. They usually run somewhere in the middle of the price/quality range, and are often sold in sets of different line weights - remember that for the Drawabox lessons, we only really use the 0.5s, so try and find sets that sell only one size.
Alternatively, if at all possible, going to an art supply store and buying the pens in person is often better because they'll generally sell them individually and allow you to test them out before you buy (to weed out any duds).
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