10:11 PM, Saturday August 22nd 2020
Thank you for the critique! And also for answering my questions during your stream that other day :)
Here is my Revision : https://imgur.com/gallery/FasqHqD
Have I understood what you meant? What can I improve? Make me fail as many times as needed please :)
Thank you, I'll reply to the first critique when I finish the revision.
Thank you for the critique!
I think I have understood most of it, and will try to demonstrate it in the revision. But I still have some questions :
About the texture, I personally don't like adding details, since it takes so much times (I am very lazy) and teaches very little, and was forcing myself to do it to not miss a part of the lessons. I think, since I don't like to do it, that it is my weakness, not only in Drawabox but also in my other works/exercises. Now the arrival of my new brush pen motivated me to do more of it, since I could learn about texture and handling that new difficult thing.
a. I though I was doing silhouette, but you said I was redrawing over the lines. I don't really understand the difference. What I understood from the insects lessons is that once we draw a force, we should not cut into it. And since birds have sometimes space between the feathers, I though the outward line of the form couldn't be drawn using the full volume of the wing.
b. I don't really understand what is proper texture in those exercises. We studied it in lesson 2, and seen it many times in the demos of the other lessons, but I still don't understand how should it be drawn. What differentiates an exercise with proper texture and a pretty detailed drawing?
This one is about the shape I made in the second form intersection page. Is it all right if I draw the shape of the cast shadow on the ground but don't fill it? You do a similar thing in the insects demos and I was interested into doing the exercise of visualizing the shape of the cast shadow, without wasting so much ink.
Thank you again for the critique
You are overall better, but still have a lot of things to improve.
Arrows : They are better and flow through space, but there is two main problems.
One : they don't compress enough as they get farther and farther away. It's not only the size of the arrow that should compress (you did that well), but also the space between the bands, until they literally overlap. Take a look at this image : https://d15v304a6xpq4b.cloudfront.net/lesson_images/f875589f.jpg.
Two : The hatching and the weigh lines could really improve. I see you didn't do the hatching for the boxes on the 250 boxes challenge and that's sad because it would have helped you tremendously. For now, when you do hatching lines, ghost before doing them. It is important that they are at least strait.
Organic forms : Those with ellipses are better, since the degree varies more. But there is too many ellipses. I feel you are doing them a bit automatically, without thinking how they really cut into your form, as if you're not believing you're drawing in 3d. Also, they aren't drawn though. That's something you should have learned from lesson 1, as that will help you train to make them more precisely. Your contour line are better too since they wrap around the form. What you could really improve on those organic forms (they are sooooo important for the next lessons), is changing the degree of the ellipses even more, and do only contour lines/ellipses after thinking them though and though them necessary. Take a look at this image : https://imgur.com/vg0vy0v.
Texture analysis : this got really better. Good job.
Dissection : First, why aren't your previous organic forms drawn like this? I feel the ellipses are way better and not rushed. The degree of the ellipses could be better though. For the textures, you did improve a lot too. One thing I see is that the patterns are really repetitive and mechanic. Most objects in life have more variation too them. So I feel like overall, you didn't do enough observation.
Form intersection : They have improved a lot. Some intersection could improve but the overall picture isn't bad, and I feel that I don't need to add much on them. The thing that could really improve is your line quality. The hatchings aren't strait, the weight lines aren't precise. More ghosting! Also superimposed lines as warm ups.
Organic intersections : There is a lot of improvement too. The main problem is that not all of them are drawn through (we should see the lines of those hidden partly at the back).
Now make a list of the comments I made here. Next Some of them are repetition of those I did in the first critique, and it's all right. Sometimes it takes repetition to really sink in. Some of the exercises are coming back in the next lessons. When you do them, bring back up that list and make sure you try your best to respect them (sometimes, you need to exaggerate the instruction, only to do it as you should).
I feel my first critique was cold and harsh and you made it though, and did the homework again with a lot of improvement. Continue like that and nothing will stop you. I will make this lesson as complete.
On to the lesson 3!
Yes well everything you want to draw is probably more complex than a box, but don't worry it will come with the constructions and simplifications method, baby steps to giant strides!
Thank you for the answer!
Along with the lesson I follow other lessons (digital painting, gesture drawing). At first, like you, I didn't see any links between drawabox and my other drawings/paintings.
Then I started the construction chapters (lesson 3+) and honestly all those boxes aren't wasted. I used to draw dragons only on the side and really flat, the only thing that gave them a big of form is a bit of shading but it wasn't enough. Now I can combine a bit of gesture drawing (humans) and drawabox construction to draw dragons not only in other positions, but also from imagination. They aren't the best out there, but drawing branches and flower stems translated into drawing dragon necks in 3D space. (I am just starting animals right now).
Honestly I didn't draw much for fun for a while but after I started the construction method it helped me draw other things from observation. I am planning on doing that a lot to fill a visual library.
This recommendation is really just for those of you who've reached lesson 6 and onwards.
I haven't found the actual brand you buy to matter much, so you may want to shop around. This one is a "master" template, which will give you a broad range of ellipse degrees and sizes (this one ranges between 0.25 inches and 1.5 inches), and is a good place to start. You may end up finding that this range limits the kinds of ellipses you draw, forcing you to work within those bounds, but it may still be worth it as full sets of ellipse guides can run you quite a bit more, simply due to the sizes and degrees that need to be covered.
No matter which brand of ellipse guide you decide to pick up, make sure they have little markings for the minor axes.